Czech Republic: Visit Cesky Krumlov and ski at Lipno Kramolin

When we lived in Vienna, Austria, the company I worked for organized a ski weekend in the Czech Republic, with a visit to the famous little town of Cesky Krumlov. There’s nothing like a road trip with colleagues to get away from the dullness of Vienna for a few days 😉

At the end of this article, I’ll briefly tell you about my skiing experience in the Czech Republic, but believe me, for someone used to the Alps, it’s not exactly the mountains of Lipno that should make you want to come here 😉 Instead, let’s start by talking a little about Cesky Krumlov and its magnificent historic center.

Cesky Krumlov: UNESCO World Heritage medieval town

Nestled in a loop of the Vltava River, this picturesque little town offers a preserved historic center with numerous cobblestone streets, colorful houses and a castle dating back to the 13th century. The magic of Český Krumlov lies in its fairytale atmosphere, where Gothic and Baroque architecture mingle with an artistic and cultural ambience.

History of Cesky Krumlov

Construction of the town and its castle dates back to the 13th century. The medieval town was built on the banks of the Vltava River in South Bohemia, some 170km south of the capital, Prague.

Although the city was completely neglected throughout the Communist era, it has been completely rebuilt and renovated since the Velvet Revolution. Since the historic center was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city has also become a popular tourist destination. During our visit, I had no trouble imagining the flow of tourists that must pass through these narrow streets in summer… Indeed, you quickly get the impression that everything revolves around tourism in this little town. You almost get the impression that the town was built for it! Souvenir and postcard sellers on every street corner, restaurants displaying their menus in photos on their storefronts, and the feeling that “everything has to be paid for”.

But in the middle of March, at 3°C, I have to admit that the atmosphere was really very pleasant. At times, we had the impression of being alone in this magnificent little medieval town, which was something I really enjoyed.

When to visit Cesky Krumlov

As mentioned above, Cesky Krumolov isn’t exactly a well-kept secret. The town is decidedly touristy, but it’s still worth a visit. As for when to come, I think that depends on your expectations… The busiest months are obviously those of the summer season, and the quietest during the winter. Personally, I’d recommend the in-between seasons, i.e. April-May or September-October.

After that, it’s important to know that this is a city that most people visit as part of a day trip from Prague or Vienna (the city is about 2h30 drive from each of these two capitals). These tours generally arrive in the late morning and leave in the late afternoon (roughly speaking, the city will be at its busiest between 11am and 4pm). A more intimate way to enjoy the city would be to stay 1 night and explore early in the morning or late in the day.

Getting to Cesky Krumlov and accommodation

It’s easy to get to Cesky Krumlov from either Prague or Vienna. From Prague, it’s by train or bus, while from Vienna it’s by bus (Flixbus). Allow 3 hours’ journey. For tickets and timetables, visit Omio.com

A cheaper and more flexible alternative is to rent a car. You can stop off en route (for example, to visit the famous Hluboká Castle, on the way from Prague). At Prague airport, you can rent a car from €25-€30 per day. When it comes to travel time, having your own car also reduces it. According to Google Maps, it takes 2h10 from Prague to Cesky Krumlov (and 2h15 if you make the detour to the castle 😉 ).

If you’d like to spend the night in Cesky Krumlov and enjoy visiting the city with a little less crowds, there’s no shortage of options. On Booking, you’ll find hostels from as little as €35 per night for two people.(Hostelskippy or Penzion Pod Hrází for example) but also some very charming hotels with a beautiful view of the historic center. Average rate: around €60-80 per night.

Top things to see in Cesky Krumlov

A small selection of the main attractions and things to see in the center of Cesky Krumlov.

Cesky Krumlov Castle + Climb to the top of the tower

Probably the town’s main attraction, the castle is a must-see! Built in the 13th century and evolving through the ages, Český Krumlov Castle bears witness to the artistic and political evolution of Bohemia. During our tour of the town, we lingered for quite a while in the various exhibition rooms, but our favorite part was the incredible view of the old town from the top of the tower. Once you’ve climbed the 163 steps, it’s well worth the effort!

Price: 180 CZK (approx. €6) for the castle tour + ascent to the tower. Guided tours are also available (approx. €8-10 if booked in advance).

Tip: if you plan to visit other museums during your stay, the tourist office sells a pass that includes access to the castle and tower, the Seidel photo museum, the city history museum, the Egon Schiele gallery and the monastery museum for CZK 500 (a saving of around 50% if you plan to visit them all). To buy the pass, simply go to the tourist office or one of the partner museums.

The gardens around the castle

The gardens adjacent to the château are really superb too, and well worth a visit. We were there in the middle of winter, so I’m happy to say that flower-wise it wasn’t the right season, but there’s no doubt that in spring or summer the place is even more spectacular.

One thing that’s really cool is their open-air theater at the back. In fact, the audience gallery is mounted on a large turntable. This means you can change scenery in no time at all. The whole audience turns onto the large structure. I’ve only seen it empty, but it must be nice to see a show (preferably in summer…) 😉

Walking tour of the historic center of Cseky Krumlov

This is not a specific recommendation, but simply to take the time to stroll through the historic center, along the pretty cobblestone streets on both sides of the Vlata. To get from one end of town to the other, take the Lazebnický Bridge.

For the best view of the castle, head for Seminární zahrada square, perched high up on the hill. Access is free, and after the castle tower, it’s probably the city’s best viewpoint!

A boat tour on the river

This activity is only available in the “warmer” months, so in the middle of March we didn’t get a chance to try it out. But it’s an original way to get around the old town! In fact, several companies offer these rides aboard wooden rafts that move forward thanks to the strength of the arms of the 2 rowers. It’s not exactly the gondolas of Venice, but it can still be fun 😉 Tours last roughly 1 hour and cost less than €20 per person.

Museums in Cesky Krumlov

If the weather sometimes plays tricks on your visit to the city, there are plenty of museum options for warmth and shelter.

• Photoatelier Seidel. Located in a superb Art Nouveau-style house, this museum traces the history of a family with a passion for photography over the last century. You can also learn a lot about the culture and development of Cesky Krumlov. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 12pm and 1pm to 4pm. Price: between 170 and 190 CZK depending on whether you take the guided tour or the audio tour (6€-8€).
• Museum of Puppetry – a museum dedicated to the evolution of puppetry, where you can admire numerous puppets made in the Czech Republic. Admission: CZK 100 (approx. €4)
• Cesky Krumlov Regional Museum: the town’s museum, where you can learn more about the region’s history and anecdotes.
• There are many other museums, such as a wax museum, a museum dedicated to film legends, etc…

Find all the museums and their opening times at the tourism office website

The Lipno Kramolin region – skiing near Vienna

From Vienna, it takes less than 3 hours to cross the Czech border and find yourself in a totally different setting. Arriving in Lipno was a real surprise! A magnificent little lake and the surrounding area dressed in a fine white coat. Our company had booked us some great waterfront apartments with a lovely view from the terrace. In short, all the ingredients were there for a great weekend!

I won’t hide the fact that I had a funny feeling when I arrived… There wasn’t much snow. No matter how hard I looked, I couldn’t really see any mountains in the vicinity… Well, I grew up in the Alps. So for me, a mountain is a peak at least 2000m high… I soon discovered that Viennese criteria were a little different… My colleagues kept telling me:

“Ahhh the mountain air feels so good!”

“Huh? Ahhh…. the hill that peaks at 980m behind us? Ah voilà!”

At the same time, I could have known better! When I loaded up the car in Vienna, I was almost the only one to have taken ski equipment and a ski jacket. I learned on the way that most of my colleagues had never set foot on skis and had never been on a chairlift. It promised to be quite an eventful weekend!

Lipno ski resort

So the next day we set off for our first day’s skiing. Once everyone was equiped out with equipment from the rental shop at the bottom of the resort, we all set off on the first chairlift. When I say all, I mean all! So those who knew how to ski perfectly, but also those who were discovering the joys of the slats for the first time. At the same time, everyone seemed quite confident, so why not 😉
It was when we got off the chairlift that I could immediately spot those for whom the day was likely to be long… or even very long…

Lipno is a tiny resort situated at an altitude of 700 meters. The top of the slopes rises to… wait for it… 910 meters! In all, there are 3 chairlifts and 4 runs. It’s not much, especially when you’re used to the swiss alps, but the slopes are excellent training grounds for beginners. They are large, perfectly groomed boulevards with a fairly relative gradient.

A day of skiing with beginners

In short, it probably wasn’t the most thrilling day of skiing for me. But it was a great experience all the same! And, what’s more, when the little marketing girls explains to the whole tech department how to get down a slope, it’s quite epic!
It’s not often that I get to explain something to my friendly geeks.

And frankly, I was impressed! A whole day on the slopes and no injuries! And I guarantee you, it wasn’t a foregone conclusion! Some people thought skiing was “soooo easy”. So before worrying about how to brake, they went straight for the bottom… Luckily, the fir trees at the edge of the run were thick and cushioned any crashes 😉

All in all, the Lipno ski area doesn’t break the bank. On the other hand, it’s a wonderful place to discover the joys of skiing if you’re a beginner, or for a family weekend on the slopes.

But I have to admit that I was really seduced by the lake and its surroundings. I’d be more inclined to spend my summer vacations there, enjoying the region for walks and bike rides!

By the way, the little campsite by the lake looked really nice! Now all I have to do is convince Benoit to come back to the region to discover more. 🙂

So, this article was mainly intended to convince you to discover the Czech Republic, but not just Prague. Prague is certainly a magnificent city, but the country as a whole is full of treasures that would be a shame to miss!

Another suggestion for a Czech destination? Feel free to comment!