Beijing was the first destination of our world tour, and it had quite an overwhelming effect on us. As we explained in our first impressions of China, this already massive city that continues to grow endlessly is the perfect example of Chinese excess. Even though we might find an even more impressive scale in Shanghai or Hong Kong, its population has practically doubled in 10 years to reach 22 million inhabitants today! Subway lines and buildings are sprouting like mushrooms, pollution breaks all records despite the (small) efforts undertaken by the government… In short, it’s quite different from Switzerland! 😉 Come, follow our guide for a tour of Beijing!
- Introduction to Beijing
- Pollution in Beijing
- When to visit Beijing
- Where to stay in Beijing
- How to get around Beijing
- Day 1: The Summer Palace
- Day 2: The Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square
- Day 3: The hutongs
- Day 4: The Temple of Heaven and Olympic Park
- Days 5 and 6: Visit to the Great Wall of China
- Other activities in Beijing for longer stays
We visited Beijing in 2013, but the article has been completely revised and updated in March 2025. If you notice any price changes or have additional information that might be relevant, please feel free to leave us a comment!
Introduction to Beijing
Once in the city, you can really feel Beijing’s rich historical and cultural past. We shouldn’t forget that compared to China, Europe is still a sort of teenager! And I’m not even talking about the United States… Actually, Beijing isn’t even the oldest Chinese city! It only became the capital under the Ming dynasty around 1400. Nevertheless, you’ll find incredible sites like the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, and the Temple of Heaven, all dating from this period… After 6 days spent in Beijing, we’re sharing what we consider the must-sees of the Chinese capital. Here’s what we loved and what we weren’t so keen on in the Chinese capital.
Pollution in Beijing
I’m starting with this topic because it’s something you really need to be aware of when visiting Beijing. Here, it’s entirely possible to have beautiful weather but not see the sun, hidden by the smog. It’s quite unfortunate for photos! I truly realized this when we climbed to higher ground for the first time.
On bad days, you find yourself in a sort of haze, and it’s impossible to see more than 1 or 2 km around you. This ambient pollution obviously has repercussions on health. For us, at the end of the day, we always had the impression of having smoked like a chimney and feeling dirty. Now imagine the people who live there year-round…
You should know that this pollution is produced by the numerous coal-fired thermal factories as well as the enormous automobile traffic in Beijing. The year we were there, pollution reached much higher levels, up to 40 times higher than WHO standards, mainly in winter when residents need to heat their homes. Just to give you an idea, on June 4th, it was practically night at noon! I don’t know about you, but just for that reason alone, we could never live in Beijing.
When to visit Beijing
From a climate perspective, we’d tend to advise you to avoid coming to Beijing in winter. Indeed, besides the cooler temperatures, there are far fewer people, but the pollution is worse due to the increased activity of coal plants. However, as you’ve just read above, smog can occur throughout the year… Nevertheless, we’d still recommend visiting Beijing between March and October for milder temperatures. Just avoid the Chinese New Year week in January/February and the golden week, the first 7 days following October 1st, the national day.
Where to stay in Beijing
We tested several low-cost backpacker-style hotels and found everything (we’ve already had our fair share of dirty toilets!). The accommodation that offers the best value for money is the Beijing Leo Courtyard youth hostel. The sanitary facilities are OK, the free internet works well, the rooms are well designed for backpackers (safe, outlets, AC…), the staff speaks English more or less well, and it’s well located. If it’s full, we recommend the Beijing Yue Xuan Courtyard Hostel. This establishment is well equipped, located near the Forbidden City and subway stations, and the staff speaks enough English to guide you properly.
For a bit more charm, we recommend the previously mentioned hostel; it also offers double rooms. If there’s no space, the Zhong An Hotel and this studio offer nice amenities while being well located.
Tip: You’ll be visiting the Chinese capital at the same time as tens or even hundreds of thousands of other travelers. Therefore, we recommend booking your hotel before your stay to be well located and have a not-too-expensive room ;). Note: don’t be surprised when looking at the prices! Accommodations in Beijing are generally more expensive compared to the country average.
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How to get around Beijing
From the airport
Beijing International Airport is located 30-40 minutes by road from the city center. We advise against taking a taxi; they’ll try to scam you every time… Instead, take the Capital Airport Express shuttle (price: 25 yuan per person) to get off at Sanyuanqiao or Dongzhimen subway stations to change lines and reach your hotel.
In the city
To get around Beijing, we strongly recommend taking the subway! We’ve actually written a whole little survival guide to tackle the Beijing subway lines. Why do we recommend the subway over buses? The bus network is very well developed with no less than 800 lines, and the signs are not in English… In short, the subway might seem intimidating, but by knowing a few tricks and the habits of Beijing residents, it’s a challenge you’ll overcome more easily than we did ;). Throughout the article, we’ll indicate which lines to take to reach the different points of interest in the Chinese capital.
We decided to do all our Beijing visits independently, moving exclusively on foot and by subway. Let’s be clear, it’s very doable! However, it takes more time. In total, we spent 6 days visiting Beijing. If you’re short on time or simply prefer having a guide and driver for the day, you can also take a tour. This one, for example, includes a one-day trip to the Forbidden City, Tiananmen Square, and the Great Wall of China. The price includes all entrances, the guide, transportation, and lunch.
Day 1: The Summer Palace
The Summer Palace, as its name suggests, was the summer residence of several emperors. Located in the northwest of Beijing, this immense beautifully wooded park can be explored on foot around the large Kunming Lake, through several palaces of classic Chinese style. You’ll also see a marble boat as well as pagodas, all spread over an area of about 3 km². The gardens are truly superb! They’re actually inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List for their creative art of Chinese landscape gardening! In a word, we loved strolling there and strongly recommend this visit.
What we loved: Since the Summer Palace park is very large, it’s easy to get away from the main mass of tourists and find quiet spots. If you have time, take a whole day to visit the different temples and gardens, and observe people doing tai chi or dancing. If you can, avoid going there on weekends; many Chinese families spend their days there. Tip: stay for sunset! Not only will the colors be magnificent, but there will also be far fewer people!
- Opening hours: The Summer Palace is open daily from 6:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
- How to get to the Summer Palace: Take subway line 4 (turquoise blue) to Beigongmen stop; you’ll arrive at the north gate, close to the major points of interest in the domain.
- Price: We recommend getting the 60 yuan ticket (7-8 euros) which includes entrances to all the main sites in the park (the Garden of Virtue and Harmony, the Buddha Fragrance Tower, and the Summer Palace Museum). To simply relax in the park, opt for the 30 yuan ticket. Book your ticket here to avoid the queue. For a guided tour, we recommend this one. You can combine your visit to the Summer Palace with that of the Great Wall of China via this tour.
Day 2: The Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square
The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square represent the geographical center of Beijing. Tiananmen Square is located south of the main entrance to the city and houses in its center the mausoleum dedicated to Mao Zedong, the communist leader of China until 1978. By the way, you’ll see photos of him absolutely everywhere in China. The square covers 40 hectares, which is quite impressive for small Swiss people like us.
The Forbidden City, with its 72 hectares and more than 8,000 rooms, is no slouch either! It was the main residence of Chinese emperors from the 15th century to the early 20th century and is teeming with countless treasures.
What we loved in the Forbidden City
Tiananmen Square is very impressive because of its size – it’s one of the largest urban squares in the world! – and what it represents. It would be a shame not to take a look before entering the Forbidden City. The latter is beautifully maintained, and you’ll need to count 4-5 hours if you want to visit most of the parts open to the public. You’ll also have the opportunity to visit different exhibitions.
We particularly recommend the one on Chinese clocks in the Clock Gallery, which is very impressive. We are Swiss after all ;). Otherwise, when leaving, climb Coal Hill in Jingshan Park, a result of the excavation of the moats surrounding the city. If you still dare to walk, it’s worth it for a magnificent overview of the entire Forbidden City. At sunset, the panorama is sublime!
What we liked less
Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City are two monuments visited by a horde of Chinese tourists, particularly in summer and during the first week of October. And as we’ve already explained, Chinese people have slightly different manners. So we found ourselves carried away in this human tide and were jostled all day without really being able to find quieter spots. So, if you visit Beijing during tourist season, don’t expect to spend a relaxing day in the Forbidden City. In any case, the visit is really worth it :).
- Opening hours: The Forbidden City is closed on Mondays and open Tuesday to Sunday, from 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
- How to get there: Take the subway on line 1 (red) and get off at Tiananmen stops. If you’re not directly on line 1, you can take line 2 (dark blue) which circles the hyper-center of Beijing and get off at Qianmen stop. You’ll then arrive south of Tian’anmen Square. Note: Just a short walk from Tiananmen Square, don’t miss the National Centre for the Performing Arts, an architectural UFO (also called the Beijing Opera House ;)).
- Fee: Entrance to the city costs 60 yuan, and you’ll be asked for an additional 10 yuan to visit important exhibitions like those of clocks or treasure (but it’s worth it!). Tiananmen Square itself is free. To avoid the queue and ensure you have a ticket (a visitor quota has been established), buy your ticket online. You can also take a guide just for the Forbidden City or to visit both monuments. To enter Jingshan Park, the entrance fee is 2 yuan. To go at sunset, plan ahead; it’s a popular spot, and you might have to wait in line for a while ;). For more tranquility, you can buy a skip-the-line ticket.
Day 3: The hutongs
A hutong is a neighborhood with traditional Chinese architecture, meaning low houses with an inner courtyard. You’ll find several of these neighborhoods in the capital, but skyscrapers tend to replace them… It’s a real shame in my opinion! Hutongs are often very lively quarters where it’s pleasant to wander in the evening, stroll around, and eat a snack. In fact, these traditional neighborhoods have a village-like feel in the middle of the city, and if you want some good advice, get lost in the small streets!
What we loved about visiting the hutongs
These neighborhoods are very lively in the evening and full of small street restaurants. Trust your instinct to choose a place to eat. We had good and bad experiences! But generally, if the restaurant is full, it means the quality is there. We also loved the lighting with hundreds of red lanterns; it gives incredible charm to these alleys!
What we liked less
The Qianmen hutong has been partially renovated in a slightly modern way for my taste and has become a bit kitschy. Get lost in the small parallel alleys to find your happy place. Otherwise, these neighborhoods remain touristy, so watch out for scams. But nothing excessive on that side.
How to get there: You can simply say the word “Hutong” to a rickshaw driver who will probably take you to Qianmen or Nanluoguxiang; these are the best known. Otherwise, the subway is always a good means! For Qianmen, take line 2 (dark blue) or line 8 (green) and get off at Qianmen station. For Nanluoguxiang, get off at the station of the same name (you’ll also see it written as Nanluogu Xiang) on lines 6 and 8. Get lost in the alleys between Di’anmen and Gulou avenues! You also have these two hutongs, Yan Dai Xie Jie and Shichahai, next to Shichahai metro station (line 8).
Day 4: The Temple of Heaven and Olympic Park
The Temple of Heaven
The Temple of Heaven is not just a circular building with its very distinctive architecture. In fact, it’s a vast park with several monuments to visit. This large round tower is the prayer altar for a good harvest, where emperors came to pray. Among other notable sites, we recommend the Wall of Echo and the Circular Altar.
Our opinion: we quite liked the visit, but in our view, it’s not a must-see.
- Opening hours: The Temple of Heaven is open daily from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m., but the monuments are closed only on Monday; you’ll only be able to access the park.
- How to get there: Take line 5 (fuchsia) and get off at Tiantan Dongmen subway station; you’ll arrive at the east gate of the park. If you’re coming from the west, you can take line 8 (green) and get off at Tianqiao station. You’ll arrive at the west entrance gate of the park.
- Fee: Entrance tickets have 2 prices, 15 and 34 yuan. We recommend the latter to access the Temple of Heaven; the cheaper one only allows you to move around the park. To save time, you can buy a skip-the-line ticket online.
Olympic Park
A remnant of the 2008 Olympics, Olympic Park is worth a short visit if only to observe its famous bird’s nest-shaped stadium or the Olympic swimming pool in the Water Cube. It has unfortunately become an attraction for tourists, and entrance is paid to visit most of the interesting sites. But the architecture from the outside remains splendid. If you can, take a tour at nightfall to see the lights enhance these two buildings!
How to get there: By subway, take line 8 (green) and get off at Olympic Sports Center station.
Days 5 and 6: Visit to the Great Wall of China
The Great Wall of China passes near Beijing, and travelers swarm to it. If you want to see it from a different angle, we explain here how to walk on the Great Wall of China without too many tourists.
Other activities in Beijing for longer stays
Here are other ideas to create your itinerary if you’re staying more than 6 days in Beijing.
Take a free guided tour of downtown
For once, we didn’t do a free city tour in Beijing! Usually, it’s the first thing we do to get a feel for the place. If you’re spending more than 3-4 days in Beijing, we recommend starting with this guided tour. The tour is free; it’s up to you to leave a tip of the amount you wish based on the guide’s skills and your satisfaction. We’ve never been disappointed; the guides are often very motivated to share the secrets of their city!
Stroll in Beihai Park
Another remarkable green space in Beijing, Beihai Park is perfect for escaping the urban hustle and bustle. This imperial garden is smaller than the Summer Palace but contains many architectural curiosities. On Qionghua Island, the white pagoda dominates the park, and you can climb it to admire the view of the surroundings. You can even rent a boat to tour Beihai Lake! You can get there on foot: the park is located northwest of the Forbidden City, next to Jingshan Park.
Take a Chinese calligraphy class
To take a break between visits, indulge in one of the oldest and most respected arts of Chinese culture. Several workshops in Beijing offer introductory calligraphy classes where you’ll learn the basics of this ancient art.
Admire contemporary art at 798 Art Zone
The 798 Art Zone is clearly the kind of place you might not necessarily imagine in Beijing City! This former industrial site has been rehabilitated into a rather bohemian district with contemporary art exhibitions in the street, art shops, restaurants, cafes… In short, it’s pleasant to wander through this artistic area that contrasts with the city center of the Chinese capital.
To get there: take line 14 (light pink) and get off at Jiangtai station. You’ll then be a 20-minute walk from the 798 Art District.
Wander down Wangfujing pedestrian street
Wangfujing Pedestrian Street is an iconic street in Beijing with a picturesque market! You’ll find all dimensions of Chinese cuisine there, including skewers of scorpions, tarantulas, and other delightful animals… Don’t worry, you’ll find other more appetizing dishes too ;).
To get there: as it’s located just a short distance from Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, you can stop by before or after your visit.
Visit the Lama Temple or Yonghegong Temple
Despite its name, you won’t see any llamas during your visit to the Yonghegong Buddhist Temple! This Tibetan temple is one of the most renowned outside of Tibet. With its colorful architecture and huge Buddha statues, this temple is well worth a visit. Perhaps we should have done this instead of the Temple of Heaven… Don’t be surprised if you’re given incense sticks; it’s customary to burn them in front of the temples. Admission costs 25 yuan per person, and the Lama Temple is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
To get there: take line 2 (dark blue) or line 5 (fuchsia) and get off at Yonghegong station.
Attend a show at the Red Theater
The Red Theater is undoubtedly THE performance venue in Beijing. Here, high-level artists put on an impressive acrobatic show! A tip: book your seat in advance, as this show is very popular!
To get there: take line 5 (fuchsia) of the metro and get off at Tiantan Dongmen station. It’s just a 15-minute walk to reach the theater.
See pandas
If you haven’t planned to include the Chengdu panda reserve in your travel itinerary through China and would like to see pandas, then you might consider visiting the Beijing Zoo. But there’s a downside: the zoo isn’t the best maintained in the world, and the animal enclosures aren’t at all suitable for the animals… For this reason, we recommend prioritizing a visit to Chengdu instead.
Take a food tour
No, there’s more to discover than just Peking duck! Chinese cuisine is extremely rich, and it would be a shame to stop at just the classics. You’ll find plenty of food tours in Beijing to delight in the delicious dishes of Chinese gastronomy, and we promise we’re not talking about seahorses or scorpion skewers that you’ll find at the market on Wangfujing Street ;)!
The People’s Republic of China, like many other countries in the world, requires a visa to enter the territory. To obtain this precious document, you need to prove a number of things: accommodation reservations, exit tickets from the country, etc. One of the essential points for obtaining the visa is also having travel insurance. If you don’t have one yet, feel free to check out our selection of the best travel insurance.
So there you have it, that’s all for our must-sees in the city of Beijing. Do you have any other tips for the Chinese capital? As for us, after spending 6 days in Beijing, we’re heading to the Great Wall of China!
P.S.: We’ve prepared a complete guide to help you prepare for your backpacking trip to China (tips, itinerary, transportation…).
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