Let’s face it, after a 36-hour journey from Buenos Aires, we arrived in Helsinki, Finland rather tired and jetlagged. Add to that the fact that we lost 40 degrees Celsius and you can imagine how we felt ;). But there was no time to rest (and anyway, it takes more than that to scare us!), as we had planned to take the ferry that evening from the port of Helsinki to the Aland Islands, a little-known archipelago, but one that held a few pleasant surprises in store for us ;).
The Aland Islands: A small paradise between Helsinki and Stockholm
Aland is an archipelago of some 6,500 islands located halfway between Helsinki and Stockholm. Officially, Aland is part of the Finnish territory, but it is an autonomous province, which means they have self-government (as well as their own flag) 😉
To help you situate all this, here’s a small map:
Altogether, Aland has a population of around 30,000, almost half of whom live in Mariehamn, the main town on the island of Fasta Aland.
A resolutely nature-oriented destination, there’s plenty to do in winter and summer alike… Among other things, you can camp, bike, kayak, trek, fish, discover remote islands, enjoy nature, go horseback riding, eat incredible fish and much more ;)… No need to say that in the 2 days we spent on Aland, we only had enough time to make ourselves want to come back for longer 😉
Getting to Aland: An overnight ferry to Mariehamn
The cheapest way to get from Helsinki to the archipelago is by ferry (there’s also the airplane, which can sometimes be cheaper, but more on that later). If you’ve been following us for a while, you’ll know that Fabienne doesn’t really like leaving the mainland and especially not if this implies spending several hours on a boat #seasick. But then, Finnish ferries inspire much more confidence than Indonesian boats… So we were pretty excited about spending the evening and night (a short one, since we disembarked at 4:30 in the morning) on Gabriella, our boat of the day.
Gabriella is quite a baby! There’s room for 2,500 passengers, several restaurants, bars, a dancefloor, a duty-free shop, a small casino… Just imagine, the ship’s cooks prepare over 300kgs of salmon every day for the passengers… Impressive!
We were given a guided tour of the ship by Hanu, a very friendly crew member. We were even allowed to visit the ship’s captain and see his most beautiful suite. A very nice moment 😉
We then went up to the outside deck to admire Helsinki by night as we left the port. Then, after a good meal in the restaurant, we headed for the bar for a little karaoke. But we’ll confess we had one beer to be polite, and then headed off to bed as we could barely keep our eyes open 😉
Aland lies between Sweden and Finland, and the easiest way to get there is by ferry. There are several companies making the crossing, but the best known is Tallink. They offer very comfortable cabins (double, twin) (we travelled in the cheapest “C-Class”, and to be honest, it was very decent!) The journey is overnight, meaning that you leave Helsinki at the end of the day and arrive in Aland in the early morning (also possible from Stockholm). Journey time: approx. 11 hours (departure around 5 p.m., arrival around 4.30 a.m.). Don’t worry, the hotels are used to these arrival times (many people arrive at this time…).
For 2 people in a C-Class cabin, you’ll pay around €100 round-trip per person.
There is also an air link from Helsinki operated by Finnair. We took the boat out and the plane back. We’d been invited to a conference and they’d organized things accordingly. Afterwards, we have to admit that we prefer to recommend the boat, as taking a plane for such a short journey is a bit of an ecological aberration. Flights take place several days a week, and fares range from €65 to €100 one way.. see flight options on Skyscanner
Accommodation in Aland – hotels and cottages
As I said, the ferry arrived in Aland at 4:30am… not ideal for recovery, but we made the best of it! A cab was already waiting for us at the port to take us to our accommodation, where we’ll sleep for a few more much-needed hours.
When we wake up, we’re delighted to discover that a lovely layer of snow has graced the landscape. And we’re glad we did, because this is exactly how we imagined Finland to be in winter ;).
We’re staying in a pretty little house with a sober, woodsy design. We’ve generally found that Finns like this kind of interior… and so do we. We’d be tempted by a few pieces of Finnish furniture, lamps or decorative elements for our future apartment.
And as a must in almost any Finnish home, there’s a traditional steam sauna. Saunas are an institution in Finland… Just imagine, there are around 3 million saunas for only 5 million inhabitants… crazy isn’t it??? So, on our first day in Santa Claus country, we had the chance to try out the real Finnish sauna, with a jump in the snow (they call it the “snow angel”) and a dip in the icy water as a bonus ;). Excellent for your health, I hear!
If you’re looking for accommodation on the island, you have several options. In Mariehamn, there are of course a number of hotels and guesthouses (expect to pay between €50 and €100 for a double room). But if you’re a family, or just want to treat yourself, our advice is to opt for a self-catering cottage. These little cottages, often located by the sea (with 6,500 islands, the sea is never far away) 😉 These cottages rent for between €120 and €300 a night, but you can usually sleep 4 or more, and they often have a sauna.
To find what you’re looking for, the easiest way is to look on Booking but also on the tourist office website.
Getting around Aland
Getting around Aland is easy:
- Public transport: Buses run regularly from Mariehamn to various parts of the island. Please note that if you’re staying elsewhere, you may have to pass through Mariehamn to get to another part of the island.
- Bikes: Bikes can be rented by the day (€14) or by the week (€70) from a number of rental companies in the city center. Many accommodations also offer the option of renting a bike.
- ferry: small ferries run between the islands. What’s special about these ferries? They’re 100% free for pedestrians. Only vehicles (cars, motorcycles, bicycles) are charged. Fares depend on distance.
- Rent a car: if you’re planning longer trips, the car is the most flexible means of transport. There are 2 rental companies on the main island, and you can compare prices on Rentalcars by typing in Mariehamn as the rental location (roughly €50-€70 for a day’s rental). It’s relatively expensive, but if you’re only staying for a week, it’s cheaper to rent locally than to put your own car (or one rented cheaper on the continent) on the ferry from Helsinki.
Discovering the Aland archipelago
Unfortunately, we only had 2 days to discover the archipelago, and believe me, that’s not very long… But we did have time to discover a few pretty spots, such as this pretty fishing port or the pretty little streets of the town of Mariehamn. Here’s a quick roundup of things to do and see on the Aland Islands.
Take a boat trip to Kobba Klintar
But the highlight for us was our little boat trip to the island of Kobba Klintar. We took a boat from the port of Korrvik, north-west of Mariehamn.
After a nice half-hour boat trip (in our opinion, there’s no better way to discover the archipelago… maybe kayaking in summer 😉 ), we arrived on a tiny island featuring a small café (only open in summer) and a superb statue of a painter with his cat (by artist Juha Pykäläinen).
Frankly, from the boat, I was sure there really was an artist painting there, lost all alone on his island ;). But enough blabbering, a few pictures will be more telling 😉
To get to the island:
The café is usually open from mid-June to the end of August. During the café’s opening period, a shuttle boat departs from the port next to the maritime museum. The return trip costs €25 per person… More information
Outside the café’s opening days, it’s also possible to go there on a private excursion. Several agencies in Marihamn offer boat trips. The budget is around €40 to €60 per person.
Visit the Maritime Museum
You can imagine that, as an archipelago, Aland has a very glorious maritime past, and this museum is here to tell you all about it. Frankly, after the Hong Kong History Museum, it’s the best museum we’ve visited in our 18-month world tour. It’s extremely well constructed, interactive and visual. If you visit the museum as a family, children will enjoy it just as much as adults. Not for nothing has this museum been nominated for the title of best museum in Europe… its 2 centerpieces are a real pirate flag (there are only 2 in the whole world) and a huge 4-masted sailing ship, anchored behind the museum… unfortunately we didn’t get to see the sailing ship, which is only open to the public in summer…
The sailing ship (Pommern) is a separate museum, but only accessible between May and September! We didn’t get to visit it, but we’ve heard great things about it! So if you’re there at the right time, don’t hesitate!
Camera museum on Aland
A real coup de coeur for us ;)… this museum is run by a lovely couple who are completely passionate about photography.
Mr. Strömberg has worked as a professional photographer/videographer all his life and has (get this) never sold a single one of his cameras. As a result, he has amassed an impressive collection of over 13,000 pieces. As he so aptly puts it, “before electricity, there was photography”… so he has copies of the very first cameras, the first films, old equipment for developing and editing films… But the best part of all is their passion and infectious good humor! If you pay them a visit, believe us, you won’t regret it ;).
Note: the museum is officially open during the summer months (mid-June to the end of September) and only on Saturdays and Sundays during the month of September). Information and schedule on their website
Visit Kastelholm castle
During the summer months, you can visit Kastelhom Castle, north-east of Mariehamn (approx. 30 minutes’ drive). The castle dates back to 1380, but underwent numerous extensions and transformations until the 1600s. Following several fires, the castle fell into disuse and was completely abandoned for several centuries. It has now been secured and is open to the public.
Right next to the castle, you can also visit the Jan Karlsgården open-air museum, which shows what life was like on an Aland farm in the 1800s. Not far away is the Vita Björn prison museum (a former penitentiary that has been converted into a museum).
More info: The museum is open daily from early May to late September.
Admission to the museum costs €8 (including access to the prison museum) per adult, and €5 for children (aged 7 to 17) and senior citizens. Children under 7 are free.
Bomarsund fortress
Located on the eastern side of the archipelago, this fortress was originally erected by Imperial Russia in the 1830s, when the Grand Duchy of Finland was attached to it. This imposing military structure was the scene of significant events during the Crimean War. It was during this war that the fortress was destroyed by a Franco-British fleet in 1854.
Not much remains of the fortress, but the museum built there is very well done and the area is very pretty to visit!
Where to eat on Aland
Michael Björklund
On the food front, we had a huge crush on the Smakbyn restaurant and its chef Michael Björklund. Let’s face it, Michael is a bit of a celebrity in Sweden and Finland, where he was voted Chef of the Year. But he decided to return to his roots on the Aland Islands to open his own restaurant… and much more besides. He makes his own liqueurs, which he rests in his cellar to the accompaniment of Finnish music (I hear it improves the taste 😉 ). He raises his own pigs, uses only local produce (apples, honey, beers etc…), bakes his own bread etc…
His plans are as ambitious as they are far-fetched! For example, he’d like to sell webcam-equipped beehives so that his customers can observe their progress from anywhere in the world. He also wants to start a cookery academy, educate Finnish children so that they once again have a culture of good produce, open a drama school…
In short, a very funny and interesting guy! On the plate, the result is a no-frills cuisine that favors good products and generous quantities (and the daily special is very affordable for this quality…15€ I think)… We’re already fans!
Other places to eat in Aland:
- Limisathreeab : located south of Eckerö, this address is a real cutie!
- Pub Stallhagen (and its microbrewery): a great place to eat local and drink good local beer
- Pub albin: a good waterfront address in Mariehamn
And don’t forget to stay hydrated – craft beer in Finland
When it comes to beverages, the Aland Islands also have a little gem: the Stallhagen micro-brewery. In 2014, they produced 22 different beers (including quite a few limited editions), which they export mainly to Sweden and Finland. So let us reassure you right away, we didn’t taste all the beers, but of those we were lucky enough to taste, we loved the Aland honey blonde… a real delight. We also recommend the brewery’s restaurant, which offers a number of dishes that go perfectly with their best beers. In short, a must go!
Map of things to see and do in Aland
To help you find your way around, here’s a small map with all the activities and addresses mentioned in the article.
Summer projects on Aland
I may be repeating myself once again, but the best time to visit the Aland Islands is definitely summer! If you’re looking for peace and quiet and an ideal playground for outdoor activities, you’ve found your next vacation destination. And we’re not going to lie to you, there’s already a good chance we’ll be back… The promises of camping under the midnight sun (and yes, in Finland in summer it’s daylight most of the day), cycling and kayaking between the islands, catching your own fish and then grilling it over an open fire… have already convinced us 😉
So much for our first discovery of Finland… and what a discovery, since we’re already planning to come back this summer ;).
We look forward to seeing you soon for more icy moments in Helsinki and the lake district around Mikkeli…
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A great blog. Åland is very well worth a visit. Keep up the good work. Have a great year ahead!