Roadtrip in Tuscany: 1 week exploring villages and vineyards

After 10 days criss-crossing Liguria in our van, we decided to head down to Tuscany. After all the hiking and climbing, it was time to enjoy a bit of Italian Dolce Vita. And when it comes to Dolce Vita, Tuscany has plenty to offer! Between the thermal springs, the magnificent villages and, of course, the wine and the vineyard landscapes, there’s everything you need chill and relax.

Saturnia – Cascate del Mulino hot springs

To begin this roadtrip in Tuscany, we decided to start by heading as far south as possible and then combing back up towards Switzerland. So our first stop in Tuscany was the Saturnia thermal baths, or more commonly known as the Cascate del Mulino. Benoit and I aren’t particularly keen on spas, but when we saw photos of this waterfall (and especially after seeing that access was free) we decided to make a little detour there. Arriving at the end of the day, we went straight to the huge camper park below the village of Saturnia (more info below) and began our Tuscan stay with a little meal on the terrace. Red wine, tapas, terrace… what more could you ask for?

For those who are curious, the restaurant we chose was called Barakka and is located on the main square where all the restaurants are. We chose a bit by luck, even though we were careful to avoid certain addresses that looked delicious but also a bit posh (and expensive). The price range of certain restaurants quickly makes you realise you are in a village with lots 5-star hotels 😉

The next morning, Benoit woke up early and set off for a short trail run in the area. After a good breakfast in the van, we set off (on foot) in the direction of the thermal baths. From the village it’s a 35-minute walk (20 minutes from the camperpark) to the hot springs.

Careful: if you type Saturnia thermal baths into Google, you’ll come across the private thermal baths of a luxury hotel. There’s no doubt that these thermal baths are great fun, but admission costs between €29 and €38 depending on the day of the week and the time of year (or €350 a night if you’re staying in the hotel). For free thermal baths, type “Cascate del Mulino“.

Benoit had passed by the waterfall on his morning jog (around 6.30am) and to no one’s surprise, he was alone. Returning at around 10am, we were a little afraid of being in the crowds, but quite frankly we were very pleasantly surprised. After that, it’s important to note that we were here at the beginning of October, which is relatively out of season 😉

The water in the thermal baths is really warm and very, very pleasant! The place reminded us a lot of Pamukkale in Turkey, although it’s obviously a lot smaller… But it’s also a hell of a lot less touristy!

If we’d known, we might have brought shoes to go in the water, as the bottom of the pools is full of stones and it’s not particularly pleasant to walk between the different swimming areas.

If you’re brave enough, it’s well worth making your way below the ponds. To get there, follow the stream that runs off to the right from the main path.

The place isn’t very big and we only spent about an hour there. But then again, Benoit and I aren’t particularly big spa enthusiasts 😉 No doubt some of you will stay much longer.

Montemerano – one of Italy’s most beautiful villages

This tiny village is just a stone’s throw from the Saturnia thermal baths, and if you’re ever in the area, we highly recommend a stopover! With its 450 inhabitants, this is one of the prettiest villages we saw on our road trip, and one of 27 Tuscan villages on the official list of “Italy’s most beautiful villages”.

The historic heart of the village dates back to medieval times, and was originally the private property of the wealthy Aldobrandeschi family (1005-1010). They were responsible for building the fortress, of which only the square tower remains today, and the town walls, which were rebuilt in the early 15th century under Sienese rule.

Walking around the village is relatively quick, but it’s great fun to stroll through the pedestrian streets! All the more so as there’s a certain dolce vita here, untouched by the mass tourism that has already invaded some Tuscan villages. There are no souvenir stores or blinged-out restaurants here. A few small cafés, a tiny grocery store and a bakery were the only shops we saw.

Pitigliano

We continue with another village that is also on this famous list of “Italy’s most beautiful villages” (in all, the list includes 360 villages throughout the country). Pitigliano is also known for its volcanic tuff soil, which led to the construction of numerous troglodyte caves in the Neolithic era.

Arriving from Manciano, we spotted a panoramic viewpoint that offers a lovely view of the village perched on its hill.

We decided to stop there for a bite to eat in the van, and our basic idea was then to get back on the road and park closer to the center. But while we were eating, we opened our map and noticed that there was a hiking trail leading to Pitigliano via the famous troglodyte caves and trenches dug into the rock.

This idea for a walk was quite spontaneous, but it turned out to be one of our favorite walks in Tuscany. It’s very short, but walking through these immense canyons was really impressive (and completely unexpected). We’ll put the map of the walk below, but clearly if you come to the area we recommend parking at the viewpoint and walking 😉

Once we arrived in Pitigliano, we entered the old town through one of the ancient arched gateways, the Sovana Gate. The picturesque old town is known as Little Jerusalem, due to the historic presence of a Jewish community that has always been well integrated into the social context and has its own synagogue. Even today, the village has a local association offering guided tours of the synagogue. Further information on the museum website.

Visiting the village is relatively quick (there are roughly 2 main streets, so you can make a loop). We recommend venturing into the narrow streets off Via Zucharelli to enjoy the pretty little squares, all with breathtaking views over the Tuscan countryside.

Below is a map of the short walk from the viewpoint.

Agricamper : Frantoio La Macina

As in Liguria, during this roadtrip we enjoyed sleeping on farms with our van. The principle of agritourism is fairly well developed in Italy, and it’s relatively easy to find places that welcome us (often free of charge) in exchange for a few purchases of their produce. In Tuscany, we couldn’t miss out on the winegrowers (more on that below), but we were also keen to discover another typical product: an olive oil producer!

The Montepulciano region is home to the Frantoio La Macina which welcomes vans and campers directly into a large meadow on their farm. No sooner had we arrived than we were greeted with a broad smile and offered a tour of the factory. It was very interesting, and after discovering the different stages of production, they offered us an aperitif (local wine and a tasting of their olive oils). At this point we were beginning to wonder how much they were going to charge us for the visit, as there was so much to eat and drink. In the end, it was 100% free, and we couldn’t believe it. Of course, we took advantage of their store to stock up on olive oil and artisanal products from their region (they also sold tapenades, artisanal beers, etc.) It was a really great experience!

Visit Montepulciano

Montepulciano is a little town I already knew by name… My dad really likes the wine there and we regularly have some on the table when we go to eat at his place! Needless to say, it made me smile to see that we weren’t far away, so Benoit and I decided to take a look around.

Our original idea was to rent an apartment there so that we could let the bad weather pass (and take advantage of being in a small town to do a few museums and wine tastings without having to hit the road again afterwards). Unfortunately, it seems that my dad isn’t the only one who loves this region, and the place is VERY popular. Rental prices were exorbitant at the last minute (in fact, there were reasonable options, but none of them accepted dogs, and only the most expensive ones were dog-friendly). In short, we dropped the idea and rented an apartment in the middle of nowhere (more on that below) and settled for a simple day tour of Montepulciano.

Montepulciano is a town we really enjoyed visiting! The architecture is magnificent, the views over the Tuscan countryside are incredible and there’s a dolce vita in the air that makes the whole thing really enjoyable. It’s also a relatively touristy town, but you can also feel that there are a lot of locals living there, so there are lots of nice cafés and little restaurants! Frankly, if rental prices hadn’t been so high, I’m sure we’d have loved to spend 2-3 days here. To see accommodation in Montepulciano you can compare prices on Booking.

Pienza

Situated between Montepulciano and Montalcino, the small town of Pienza is often cited as a jewel of Renaissance architecture. In fact, Pienza’s historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Pienza, formerly known as Corsignano, is also the small town where Enea Silvio de’ Piccolomini, the future Pope Pius II, was born. In 1459, a year after his accession to the pontifical throne, Pius II conferred on it the title of city and episcopal residence. Renamed “Pienza” in homage to his new pontifical name, the town became the setting for an ambitious project. Architect Bernardo Rossellino was commissioned to design an ideal city embodying Renaissance principles.

Not everything went according to plan since the early death of the pope put an end to the large-scale renovations that had been planned. But to this day, the papal palace, a cathedral and the main square, named Pius II in honor of the late pope, remain.

The town is relatively small and takes less than an hour to get round, but it’s well worth getting lost in the many alleyways leading off the main square.

Oh, and before you leave Pienza, we recommend stopping off to buy a piece of Peccorino! 🙂 Many Tuscan towns have their own Peccorino, but Pienza’s is particularly prized and often cited as one of the best. Of course, we had to check it out! The best place to buy cheese is on one of the main streets, at Marusco e Maria.

San Quirico d Orcia

Not far from Pienza, we set off to explore another medieval village nestled in the heart of the Val d’Orcia: San Quirico d’Orcia. Like Pienza, San Quirico d’Orcia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Set between hills and countryside, this village captivates with its timeless atmosphere and rich historical heritage.

Its history dates back to Etruscan times, but it was not until the Middle Ages that San Quirico d’Orcia gained in importance, thanks to its strategic position on the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route linking Canterbury to Rome. The village still preserves traces of this era, with its cobbled streets and well-preserved walls surrounding the historic center.

One of San Quirico’s jewels is the Collegiata dei Santi Quirico e Giulitta, a Romanesque church remarkable for its richly carved portals and imposing architecture.

Just a stone’s throw away, the Horti Leonini gardens offer the opportunity for a green stroll right in the heart of the small town. These Italian-style gardens, created in the 16th century, are distinguished by their perfect symmetry and cypress-lined paths, making them an ideal place to stroll and admire the beauty of Tuscan nature. If, like us, you’re traveling with your dog, he’ll have to wait for you outside (Benoit and I decided to take turns) 😉

Oh, and if you fancy an ice cream, we recommend the Golosi di Gelato store on Via Dante Alighieri! Their ice creams are really excellent!

The village is also famous for its picturesque surroundings, made up of rolling hills, fields of golden wheat and olive groves. The landscapes surrounding San Quirico d’Orcia are often photographed and are among the most iconic in Tuscany. In fact, we stopped off at one of the “Instagram spots” between Pienza and San Quirico d’Orcia. But honestly, if you travel by van in Tuscany, you’ll see plenty of pretty viewpoints… This one didn’t give us the impression of being particularly more beautiful than any other, it’s just better known 😉

Bagno Vignoni

Inspired by the Saturnia thermal baths, we thought we’d check out some of the other hot (and free) natural springs in Tuscany. We’d seen photos online and it looked really cool! Before going any further, let me warn you: coming to Bagno Vignoni may be worthwhile if you come to stroll around the pretty pedestrian center, eat in a very good restaurant, but not to bathe…

Let me explain: in Bagno Vignoni you’ll find 4 main things… The large 50m by 30m pool with water at 40°, in which it is now forbidden to swim, large hotels with spas (which look magnificent by the way), lots of very nice restaurants, an old remnant of natural pools filled with barely warm water (I’d say 15°C). We tried to do a little research but couldn’t find anything conclusive… our guess is that the hotels above us are pumping into the hot spring to feed their spas and that the water is only lukewarm in the lower part (the part that’s accessible free of charge).

After that, the restaurant terraces are really nice, and the restaurant menus were clearly tempting (we’d just finished eating when we got there, so unfortunately we didn’t try them out). In short, Bagno Vignoni is a lovely place to visit, where you can probably eat very well, but don’t expect to be able to swim for free.

Note: if you want to take advantage of the thermal baths, it’s possible to go to the spa without paying the hotel, but admission costs €38 per person (we didn’t try it this time). To see hotels in Bagno Vignoni, go to Booking.

3 days of relaxing and working in an apartment surrounded by vineyards

Ok… these 3 days of work and relaxation weren’t really on the agenda, but the absolutely disastrous weather forecast got the better of our motivation to stay 24/7 in a 3m2 van with the dog 😉 In short, it was a bit of a last-minute decision to rent this apartment for 2 nights. And I’d like to tell you that we had a good intuition on this one… It literally started pouring as soon as we arrived, and it wasn’t until we woke up on the last day that we were able to briefly enjoy the lovely setting in which the apartment was located.

Montalcino and its Brunello

Located in the Val D’Orcia, Montalcino is one of those places whose name is bound to ring a bell if you like red wine 😉 Like Montepulciano, Montalcino wines are among the best known in Tuscany. Brunello di Montalcino is often cited as one of the best wines in the world!

The little town has a fine architectural heritage dating back to the Middle Ages, with the walls surrounding Montalcino dating from the 13th century. But let’s be honest, our visit was mainly driven by the desire to replenish our personal wine cellar 😉 We did a little walking around, but it wasn’t long before we made our way to the Bruno Dalmazio wine cellar. There are, of course, many wine cellars in the city, but this one seemed to us to be the best. And frankly, we recommend it!

We were very well advised! Of course, some of the wines sold there are absolutely unbelievably expensive (some bottles are well over €1000), but there are also plenty of options at much more reasonable prices. And it’s not just Brunello di Montalcino that’s good… We had several blends or Sangiovese that don’t necessarily have the Brunello de Montalcino appellation, and they were all excellent!

PS : If, like us, you like wine but you’re not an expert either… we recommend you download the Vivino app, which allows you to scan bottles and see live reviews (as well as the average retail price). This gives you a good idea of what you’re buying, so you don’t just blindly follow what the seller suggests.

Monteriggioni – Tuscany’s hidden gem?

Before coming to Tuscany, I came across a blog whose articles seemed a little dated, but one village in particular caught my eye: Monteriggioni. The author was talking about a small fortified village along the Via Francigena, with 1-2 charming little authentic cafés and artisans… Anyway, when I read that, I had saved the place on our preparation map and was really looking forward to going there! On the way back to Volterra, we decided to stop for a coffee on one of the lovely terraces described by the author.

Arriving from the main road, the place seemed to live up to all its promises: a magnificent fortification on a small hill that seemed lost in the middle of nothing.

My first doubts began to appear when we arrived at a HUGE parking lot equipped with barriers… Two entrances for cars, a separate entrance for coaches and a large camper van area. In all, over 300 parking spaces… Quite a lot for a little secret village, isn’t it?

It seems that in recent years, this fortified village has undergone a major tourist boom! Situated on the road between Florence and Siena, it seems to have become the must-see stop for tour operators, and has been a little too often cited as a hidden treasure 😉 That’s not really a criticism per se, but I’d rather make it clear. The village is and remains beautiful, but the 2 little cafés have clearly been replaced by a series of restaurants where it’s clear how to maximize profits (one gentleman dared to sit at a table for 4, all by himself, to read his newspaper (the terrace was half-empty) and the waitress kindly explained to him that he couldn’t sit at a table for 4 by himself and made him move to a tiny table for 1).

To sum up, is Monteriggioni a hidden treasure with a well-kept secret? Absolutely not! Is it pretty and worth the detour? Yes, why not.

The Diborrato waterfall

So here it is, my friends, I’m including a hike that I promise you won’t want to make after seeing our photos! 🙂 But I promise that in theory I think it’s a pretty good hike, and that’s why I’m including it… Background: we’d spotted this walk as a chance to stretch the dog’s legs on the way to Volterra, and the photos we’d seen looked promising. The problem? Remember I said we’d taken an airbnb to let 3 days of crazy rain pass ? Well, it’s good to know that when there’s a lot of rain, rivers tend to fill up with water (which makes sense), but they also tend to carry all the mud and dirt along with them. I’ll let you judge from the photos what I mean by that… The first photo was what we expected and the other 2 are what we got. haha

You can also read the article on this blog to see more photos 😉

If the weather’s better and you’re interested in the walk, we’ll give you a few pointers anyway 😉 The hike starts next to the San Marziale bridge (parking is available, as you can see on the map below). The walk is an out-and-back along the river in the Val d’Elsa. In several places, you have to cross the stream by walking on large stones. At the time of our visit, this area was a little rough and shoes had to be removed, but there was a lot of water. From the images we’ve seen, the rest of the time it’s much easier.

In all, the hike is 6km (round trip) and almost perfectly flat. Allow 1h30-2h for the round trip. In summer, the area is also popular for its many swimming options.

Volterra – the beautiful one perched on a hill

In this region south of Florence, there are two towns that are often cited as must-sees: San Gimigniano and Volterra. In many organized tours from Florence, they are often offered as a combo… Due to lack of time (and the desire to go hiking in the Alpi Apuane nature park) we decided to choose just one of the two.

So we set our sights on Volterra and its Etruscan and Roman ruins. We parked a little way from the center and set off to explore the town center. With its 12,000 inhabitants, Volterra is the largest town we visited on this road trip. Winchy (our dog) is extremely uncomfortable in an urban environment, a trauma he has retained since his adoption. He’s made great progress and visits like Volterra are now going well, but we clearly skipped Florence, Siena and Pisa for this reason. In short, no museums for us, just a nice 2-hour stroll through the historic center.

I don’t know if it’s Winchy who’s rubbed off on us, but Benoit and I also tend to shun big cities. haha But for the record, I think Volterra was my favorite town in Tuscany. The cobbled streets, the pedestrianized center, the magnificent views over the Tuscan countryside, the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, the “tower houses”, the medieval arches… it’s all very harmonious and I simply found it one of the most interesting towns to explore on foot!

Agricamper terre de Pepi

We couldn’t leave Tuscany without at least stopping off at a winegrower’s with our van… 😉 Agricamper are quite common in Italy, and we’re not going to lie, we really like the idea. The concept? A bit like the one for olives, the idea here is that you can come and park for free for one night. In exchange, of course, you’re welcome to eat/buy the products of your host.

For this stopover we chose the “Terre de Pepi” winery, a tiny cellar 2 steps from Volterra run by a young enthusiast who decided to take up wine production following a re-conversion. We had a tasting session there, and simply LOVED it (we left with a box of wine, haha).

Francesco decided to plant his first vines in 2007 while writing his thesis on “The influence of hydraulic and agricultural systems for pre-planting a vineyard on soil fertility”. He currently farms around 3 hectares of vines, growing Sangiovese, Ciliegiolo, Colorino and Montepulciano for the reds and Vermentino for the whites. All the grapes are harvested by hand, and the estate applies the “green manure” method. In other words, every year he sows mixtures of legumes and grasses in the rows, which are then chopped up and buried during the flowering phase. In this way, Francesco completely renounces chemical inputs, enabling him to produce 100% organic wines (although he is not yet certified).

Website : Terre de Pepi

Peccioli : a quirky, artistic village in Tuscany

For our last stop in a Tuscan village, we decided to take a closer look at the little town of Peccioli. The name doesn’t ring a bell? It’s quite possible… I don’t think the place is particularly touristy… Although this may change in the future, given that Peccioli has won the Borgo dei Borghi prize, an annual competition organized by the RAI television channel to select a village with a special charm that is largely unknown to the general public.

Peccioli’s success is largely due to its arty approach to renovating the old town center. In fact, over the past twenty years or so, a number of contemporary artworks have brightened up the center of this small medieval town. A good example is the fairly recent renovation of the Palazzo Senza Tempo. The building dates back to the 14th century and has been completely renovated, integrating many modern features while preserving the old. A huge panoramic terrace has been added to enjoy the view of the surrounding area. The house has now become a kind of cultural center where you can wander freely.

But then, in Peccioli there are more than 20 contemporary works scattered throughout the town. The best-known work is probably that known as “The Giants of Peccioli”, a collection of immense human sculptures that seem to rise from the ground. It’s a strange place that intrigues and leaves no one indifferent. It’s possible to take a hike to discover more, but we preferred to continue on our way once we’d seen the statues closest to town… To find out more about Peccioli’s work, take a look at tourist office website.

Hiking in the Alpi Apuane Natural Park

To round off our roadtrip in Tuscany, we decided to do what we do best: hike! And there’s no better way to do that than to explore the Alpi Apuane nature park. This mountainous region lies in the very north of Tuscany, just below the 5 Lands. With peaks rising to almost 2000m and the coast right on our doorstep, we were almost guaranteed spectacular views.

To find out more about this corner of Tuscany, we refer you to our detailed article on the natural park.

Roadtrip in Tuscany : how was it?

Tuscany is a region we really enjoyed spending a week in, and above all a region that really allowed us to relax before heading back to Switzerland. After that, if we’re being 200% transparent, when we think about our future roadtrips in Italy, it’s absolutely obvious that we’ll return to explore Liguria, but for Tuscany we’re less sure. Don’t get us wrong, Tuscany is beautiful, but I think for the lovers of hiking and climbing peaks that we are, we found Tuscany a little “flat”. The villages are superb, the wine excellent, the cuisine wonderful… But after a week, we couldn’t wait to get back to hiking, and that’s why we ended our trip in the Alpi Apuane Natural Park, which we mentioned in our last article 😉

With Benoit, we’re good candidates for 2-3 days of farniente and epicurean mode, but after that we quickly start to go round in circles.

So obviously we’re far from having seen the whole of Tuscany, and it’s quite possible to do more outdoor and mountain activities if we head more towards the border with Emilia-Romagna, but for the vineyards-villages part I think that, personally, a few days is perfect 😉

That’s all for today. We look forward to seeing you soon for our traditional annual review.

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