After pedaling through the temples of Angkor and an express passage through Phnom Penh, we headed for the south of Cambodia, renowned for its nature, with its parks in the Cardamom Mountains and its few islands, including Koh Kong Island. Let us show you around.
We took this trip at the end of 2013, but the article was completely revised and updated in August 2023. If you see any price changes or have additional information that might be relevant, please feel free to leave us a comment!
The Koh Kong province in south-west Cambodia
Arrival in Koh Kong town
After another long drive from Phnom Penh (8 h instead of 5-6 h, it’s becoming a habit!), we finally arrive in the small town of Koh Kong, also known as Khemara Phoumin, close to the Thai border. By way of background, the southwestern province that encompasses the Cardamoms is also called Koh Kong. So let me warn you right away, don’t expect a pretty little coastal town. You won’t find any pretty beaches or nice little bars, but it’s a must if you want to venture into the mangroves, the Cardamom Mountains, or the pristine island of Koh Kong.
From Siem Reap, there is no direct bus service to Koh Kong. You’ll have to change in Phnom Penh or cross the Cardamom massif and wake up your inner Indiana Jones! In fact, it all depends on where you’re coming from.
In the first case (and if you’re coming from another town in the east or south of Cambodia), you’ll find plenty of buses to the capital. From Phnom Penh to Koh Kong, a few companies run minibusses. Alternatively, you can travel from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, visit Koh Rong or the other islands in southern Cambodia, and join Koh Kong afterward.
Crossing the Cardamom Mountains usually takes 1 day to reach Koh Kong from Siem Reap: Siem Reap-Battambang-Pursat-Osoam-Koh Kong. Chances are you’ll have to change vehicles at each stage, so it’s a corner that’s well worth the effort 😉. In the second part of this article, we’ll go into more detail about transport to Osoam and the other eco-tourism villages.
Accommodation in Koh Kong Island
After some research, we opted for a small guesthouse offering simple (but inexpensive) rooms and organizing outings throughout this region of Cambodia. Unfortunately, this lovely guesthouse has since closed…
We’ve scoured the internet to find you some worthy establishments offering tours in Koh Kong island and the surrounding national parks:
- Young Wild & Free: sleep in a small hut on the beach, facing the sunset, and set off the next day to discover the island of Koh Kong. A little piece of paradise at a small price!
- Rainbow Lodge: this eco-lodge surrounded by jungle offers a wide range of activities, accompanied by enthusiastic guides. In addition to Koh Kong, sail through the mangroves and explore the Preat River by kayak.
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Day trip to Koh Kong Island and mangrove walks
We decided to get off to a gentle start with a beach-snorkeling tour on Koh Kong Island, followed by a short stroll through the mangroves. It’s barely 8 a.m. when we board our little boat with a German couple and our two driver-cooks bound for the island. After a pleasant 2-hour ride, we finally arrive on one of Koh Kong’s most beautiful beaches.
Koh Kong, the island of paradise
To our great delight, we’re the only ones to enjoy this heavenly spot all day long. Just imagine! While we were busy sunbathing, snorkeling or kayaking in Koh Kong Island, our two guides for the day concocted a fish barbecue worthy of a super restaurant. We just felt incredibly privileged to be able to feast like this all alone in the shade of the palm trees.
Return by boat through the mangroves
After a few short hours (we were able to stay on the island for around 5 hours), we take the boat back to the mangroves in the Peam Krasaop sanctuary. Our boat sets us down at the entrance to a 1 km-long stilt walk through the famous mangroves.
It’s impressive to be able to walk through this tangle of trees rooted in the water. At the end of the trail, a tower offers a breathtaking view of the mangroves and the Cardamom Mountains. All in all, although the excursion isn’t cheap ($23 per person at the time), we had a wonderful day on the paradise island of Koh Kong. Conclusion: we really do recommend a trip to this unspoiled spot!
Other islands in southern Cambodia
Koh Kong is Cambodia’s largest island, but the others nearby are not lacking in interest either. In fact, they bear a striking resemblance to the islands of Thailand! The boats to get there all leave from Sihanoukville. Like Koh Kong, the town isn’t very interesting – it’s just a must for exploring the surrounding area.
Koh Rong
Koh Rong is undoubtedly Cambodia’s best-known island. Unlike Koh Kong, Koh Rong is overflowing with various hotels. It’s a paradise, but also a place to (often) party. To make up your own mind, we suggest you read two articles/stories with two different points of view: Brigitte and Jake’s, and James’.
Koh Rong Sanloem
Often associated with its big sister Koh Rong, Koh Rong Sanloem is a very different island. Less party-going, wilder, but more expensive, Koh Rong Sanloem is also more intimate. To find out more, we direct you to Glenn and Cecilie’s article.
Koh Ta Tiev
Koh Ta Tiev is undoubtedly one of the most remote islands in southern Cambodia. There are just two pretty hotels on this islet! In short, if you’re looking for a few days of total relaxation, without parties or too many tourists, this is the island for you! And don’t worry, there’s plenty to do if you want to.
Sihanoukville is a big city, so you won’t have any trouble getting there! From Siem Reap, buses often run at night, as the journey is a little long (10-12h). Tickets cost around $16.
From Phnom Penh, it takes about 3 h to get to Sihanoukville for around $11 per person. A good option is to take the train! Roads in Cambodia can be chaotic, and the journey is shorter by rail. The train from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville departs daily at 7 a.m., arriving at 12:40 p.m. Tickets are cheaper too. Tickets are cheaper too: $10/person.
Trek in the Cardamom jungle
The Cardamom Mountains
The next day, I decided to set off alone on an excursion into the jungle that covers the Cardamom Mountains. Fabienne wasn’t too keen on mixing with the critters that live there 😉. Wedged between Battambang and Sihanoukville, the Cardamom Mountains lie on the Thai border and are somewhat shunned by travelers. Long preserved, this mountain range was exploited at the end of the 20th century as a minefield by the Khmer Rouge…
Today, several ethnic minorities (Chlong and Poar) are scattered over this massif of several million hectares. However, poaching and deforestation are threatening this unique environment, where numerous animal species live side by side. Several measures have been put in place to preserve this lung of Cambodia: creation of national parks and sanctuaries, development of ecotourism…
In short, this region of Cambodia is a natural jewel and the perfect place to observe unique flora and fauna off the beaten track.
Jungle trekking
So off I went again, accompanied by two young guides and 3 other travelers. After an hour-long boat ride through the mangroves, we were dropped off at the foot of the Cardamom Mountains.
We then plunge into the thick jungle that covers the mountains (notice that, from a Swiss perspective, they look more like hills!). We climb for a good two hours at a good pace, spurred on by our two friends. It’s worth noting that they’re wearing flip-flops, while we’re all well equipped with our trekking boots, and yet we’re the ones struggling to keep up…
The forest we pass through is magnificent, full of streams and small waterfalls. We finally reached a clearing, the scene of a spectacle that left me speechless.
A dreamy swim
In front of me, I have a splendid view of the mangroves and the ocean. Behind is a succession of pools and waterfalls into which we’re about to take a dip. Maybe it’s stupid, but I’ve always dreamed of showering under a natural waterfall and bathing in such an environment! (OK, I saw too many shower gel commercials when I was younger!)
And to make the moment even more perfect, our two little guides cooked us a delicious chicken with vegetables en papillote. These few hours spent in this little corner of paradise will remain forever engraved in my memory. It’s for moments like this that we travel!
After lunch, we, unfortunately, had to turn back towards our boat because of the tide… In short, we didn’t want to get stuck in the mangroves!
But as you can see, I loved this day in the jungle and I highly recommend spending a few days in the Cardamom National Park!
If you’re not tempted by the region’s ecotourism and rough aspect (we’ll tell you more about it right after), several jungle-side establishments also offer tours and activities if you wish:
- Cardamom Tented Camp: also based on ecotourism but less rustic than the villages mentioned above, you’ll stay in large tents with all the necessary comforts.
- Koh Andet Eco Resort: this charming hotel is located on the banks of the Tatai River and offers kayak trips to the Tatai waterfall.
- Canvas & Orchids Retreat: another hotel on the Tatai River. Clearly, this is a hotel for indulgence; you’ll be pampered in sublime surroundings!
- Rainbow Lodge: this ecolodge offers a wide range of activities in the heart of the jungle, accompanied by passionate guides. As well as offering a tour of Koh Kong, you can explore the mangroves by kayak!
Ecotourism in the Cardamoms
To do this trek, I set off from Koh Kong town, as it was our guesthouse that offered these tours in the Cardamoms. Since the health crisis, the accommodation has closed and there’s little info online about other possibilities. Here’s a summary of what we’ve found out about accommodation and things to do in the region! If you know anything more, don’t hesitate to leave us a comment.
To date, there are some drop-off points and villages in the Cardamom massif dedicated to ecotourism (Community-Based-EcoTourism or CBET), focused on local populations and the protection of Cambodia’s flora and fauna. From north to south, you have Osoam, the Areng Valley and Chi Phat. Feel like bringing out your inner adventurer 😉?
Osoam
Mr. Lim created the Osoam Cardamom Community Center intending to support rural communities by developing different sources of income through sustainable development. The principle is simple: you stay with local people and they invite you to share a slice of Cambodian life with them. The village of Osoam is perhaps a little less active than the other two, but you can get directly involved by volunteering to develop the village’s projects.
Osoam is not directly accessible. Whether you’re coming from Battambang or Siem Reap, you have to pass through the town of Pursat (Pouthisat) and Pramaoy (Phumi Pramaoy), 40 min from Osoam. From Koh Kong, the journey is more direct and you’ll find a cab or minivan at the bus station or in town. If you’re in Sihanoukville or Kampot, the Steung Areng in the Areng Valley or Chi Phat sites are more convenient (it’s a 3-hour drive from Osoam to the Areng Valley!).
Areng Valley
Areng Valley has built up a good reputation in CBET programs. Since 2016, the village has turned to ecotourism to offer tourists unique moments close to the locals and nature. In addition to homestays, several treks, bike or motorcycle tours with guides are offered in a preserved environment (waterfalls, jungle…). (Special mention to restaurants with tempting menus!) In all, Steung Areng is home to over 1700 inhabitants divided into 3 communities: Thmar Dounpov, Chumnoap and Brolay. To find out more, visit the Steung Areng CBET website.
From Koh Kong, a minivan leaves every morning at 10 a.m. for Steung Areng. Alternatively, you can take the bus from Phnom Penh to Koh Kong and ask the driver to let you off at the Veal Pi/Thmar Bang junction on Route 48. From there, a moto-taxi will take you to the center, after 60 km of track. But it’s probably best to contact the center to arrange your transport. Also, check with the accommodation you’re leaving, as some hotels will arrange transport to your next destination!
Chi Phat
Chi Phat is “the most famous” of the CBET programs in the Cardamom jungle. This small village offers homestay accommodation and a wide range of activities: cooking classes, cycling, trekking, kayaking…
Chi Phat is also a must if you want to visit Wildlife Release Koh Kong, a center that rescues animals from poaching and illegal wildlife trafficking in Cambodia. They then care for them and prepare them for release. The center also offers tours that include animal feeding, jungle trekking, taking a dip in streams and a night in a cottage after a typical Cambodian meal. Just one of the many options described in this article!
To get to Chi Phat, the procedure is the same whether you’re coming from Koh Kong, Phnom Penh, Kep or Kampot. You’ll need to take a bus to Koh Kong (or Phnom Penh if you were in Koh Kong) and ask the driver to stop at the Andoung Tuek town bridge on Route 48. There, you can either take a motorcycle ($7) or a boat ($10 for a minimum of 3 people) if you’ve booked your transport with the Chi Phat center. Don’t panic if you haven’t, just ask at the hotel/resto 50 m on the right after the bridge for transportation to Chi Phat.
If you opt for a tour with Wildlife Release Koh Kong, they’ll pick you up directly in Chi Phat, 30 min from the center.
So there you have it, you know all about Koh Kong and the Cardamom Mountains, two little-known places in southern Cambodia! We hope we’ve whetted your curiosity about this remote corner of the world. For the rest of our trip, we’ll be heading along the south coast to visit Kep and Kampot. Will you be joining us?
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