El Chaltén, Argentina’s paradise for hikers and trekkers

After our W Trek in Chilean Patagonia, a quick stop at the Perito Moreno Glacier, and some hikes in Bariloche, we’re about to embark on the final step of our Argentinian adventure… And what a final step it is! We’re ready to visit El Chaltén, the paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, with the iconic Fitz Roy mountain. We’ll take you on a 4-day discovery journey around this village, in the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park! Grab your hiking boots ;).

Presentation of El Chaltén

The village

El Chaltén is a small village of less than 2,000 inhabitants nestled in the Los Glaciares National Reserve, in Argentinian Patagonia. Emerging at the end of the 19^th century, the place lives from tourism and attracts thousands of travelers each year in search of hiking adventures. Indeed, it’s a must-visit for hiking and trekking enthusiasts, and it’s impossible to talk about El Chaltén without mentioning the famous Fitz Roy! Below, we’ll detail the information to walk this famous trail and all the other must-do hikes, whether you stay less than 4 days or longer. From day hikes to multi-day treks, you’ll definitely find something that suits you!

When to visit El Chaltén

The tourist high season in El Chaltén runs from October to April, with a peak during the austral summer between December and late March. To avoid crowds and enjoy the beautiful autumn colors, visiting between late March and late April can be a good option. Hiking trails are open year-round but may close in winter depending on weather conditions. During the winter period, some establishments close. The village remains accessible, but options are more limited compared to summer!

How to get to El Chaltén

By car

Renting a car can be a good idea depending on your travel itinerary. If you arrive in El Calafate, you can rent a car to first visit Perito Moreno Glacier, then drive to El Chaltén (2h40 drive). The road is paved and in good condition. If you’re staying for more than 4 days, a car is also a good way of getting to the trails outside the village.

By bus

If you choose the bus from El Calafate, book your ticket at least 2 days in advance as seats fill quickly. Several companies operate the route: Chaltén Travel, Taqsa, Caltur. You can depart from the city center or directly from El Calafate International Airport. Prices are around 38,000 Argentinian pesos per person, with approximately 8 departures throughout the summer. Book tickets online.

From Perito Moreno (the town, not the glacier) north of El Chaltén, bus journeys take around 13 hours. Fares are around 135,000 pesos for a cama seat. Click here for timetables.

Hitchhiking

Hitchhiking is widespread in Patagonia, and the El Calafate-El Chaltén route is a good one. Just make sure you get there early so you don’t have to wait alongside dozens of other hitchhikers!

Where to stay in El Chaltén

Though small, El Chaltén offers accommodations for every budget. Here are our recommendations for lodging between hikes. Since everything is walkable in the village, location isn’t crucial. However, we strongly recommend booking in advance, especially during Patagonia’s high season. The cheapest places fill up quickly!

Pro Tip: If you’re going on a multi-day trek, ask your hostel if they can store your belongings until you return. Some offer free lockers or storage for a few pesos.

Hotels and hostels

For budget/solo travelers or backpackers:

• Hostel Luna Country: this is one of the cheapest hostels in El Chaltén! The owner is very attentive and his establishment is very well maintained. For the price, you sleep in a dormitory and have access to 2 kitchens and large common areas. In short, it’s perfect if you don’t want to blow your budget!
• Rancho Grande Hostel: we recommend this inn if you run out of room at Luna Country. The price is a little higher, but still one of the least expensive establishments in the village. The services are the same: dormitory or private room and common areas. The hostel has a restaurant, and you can also have breakfast here (extra charge if you sleep in a dormitory).
• Patagonia Hostel: this charming hostel has everything you need for an excellent stay between 2 treks: a bed in a dormitory (max 4 beds) with a view of the mountains, large common areas with kitchen, excellent breakfast…

For medium travel budgets or couples, the 3 hostels mentioned above also offer double rooms and even whole apartments at attractive prices. If everything is already fully booked, we recommend these accommodations:

• Guanaca Lodge: The establishment offers double rooms with breakfast included and excellent value for money. Mountain views, communal areas with kitchen, private bathroom… This lodge has it all!
• Posada San Antonio: this friendly hotel offers comfortable rooms with private bathrooms and breakfast. Bonus: the attentive staff will make your stay unforgettable!
• Apart Guillaumet: this entire apartment is a little more expensive than the rest, but when it comes to quiet, you won’t find anything better! Cozy apartment, view of Fitz Roy, breakfast, fully-equipped kitchen… In short, a real cocoon!

Campings

In El Chaltén

El Chaltén has 3 campsites offering pitches for between 10 and 15,000 pesos.

• El Relincho: well-equipped (kitchen, common room and bathrooms with hot water available) but it can be complicated to cook or use the bathrooms in high season because there are too many people for the number of facilities…
• La Torcida: located at the entrance to the trail to Laguna Torre, this small campsite offers the essentials (bathrooms with hot water, kitchen and common room) and the spots are fairly sheltered from the wind.
• El Charito: right next to La Torcida, don’t expect exceptional services from this campsite. Frankly, we wouldn’t recommend it…

Outside the village

For those wanting to camp within Los Glaciares National Park outside the village, several options exist.

• the one next to the Laguna Capri: accessible after a 5 km walk from the village on the Fitz Roy route, it’s free! You’ll have access to toilets and drinking water from the lagoon.
• Poincenot campsite: located 4 km further on from Laguna Capri, still on the trail leading to the Laguna de los Tres, this campsite is perfect if you want to see Fitz Roy at sunrise. The site is sheltered from the wind, and the facilities include toilets and drinking water. The cost is 15,000 pesos per person. This is the most central campsite, in the sense that you can go as far as the Piedras Biancas viewpoint, the foot of Fitz Roy, or the Madre and Hija lagoons.
• Agostini campsite lies further south, next to Laguna Torre, at the foot of the Torre glacier. Apart from toilets, there’s nothing here – you’ll have to get water from the river along the trail (8.5 km from El Chaltén). It’s free!
• Toro campsite is located even further south, on the banks of the Laguna Túnel o Toro, a 16 km walk from El Chaltén. Free of charge, it’s fairly remote, so you won’t come across many people! There are toilets, but for drinking water, you have to go to the river.

Tip: if you’re in a van or campervan, you can use the free Campamento Libre Confluencia at the southern entrance to the village.

Practical information before hiking

Entrance tickets

Since October 2024, entering the park now requires a fee. Unfortunately, to enjoy Patagonia, you’ll need to open your wallet. But don’t worry! There are several ticket options to suit different hiking plans:

• 1-day tickets (45,000 pesos per person): These are valid for 1 day in a specific sector depending on the trails you want to hike:
  • Río Eléctrico entrance (Outside the village for the Piedra del Fraile trail and the alternative El Pilar trail to Laguna de los Tres)
  • Fitz Roy entrance (North of the village for Laguna de los Tres, Laguna Torre, and Chorrillo del Salto trails)
  • Los Cóndores entrance (South of the village for Mirador de Los Cóndores, Mirador de las Águilas, Laguna Toro, and Loma del Pliegue Tumbado trails)
• Discounted 2-day ticket (67,500 pesos each): choose this option for a 2^nd day at 50% off. The ticket is then valid for 72 hours after your first day’s entry. Please note that these 2 tickets are valid for the same area, so in theory you can’t take the first ticket in El Calafate for the glacier and the second for Fitz Roy, for example.
• Flexipass 3 or 7 days (90 000 or 157 500 pesos each): Valid for 3 or 7 days across the entire Los Glaciares National Park (including Perito Moreno)

You can buy tickets online on the official website or on-site (card payment only) at the mentioned entrances. Would we recommend buying tickets in advance? Well, not necessarily and we’ll tell you why.

Map of the park at El Chaltén

To help you find your way around the entrances and trails, here’s a map of Los Glaciares Park in the El Chaltén sector.

Checking points

After reading many accounts, you might manage without paying full price by avoiding the controls at the three entrances. Before 7 a.m. and after 6 p.m., there’s a high chance you won’t encounter anyone at the trailheads. Additionally, the rangers don’t necessarily pay close attention to the number of days indicated on the flexipass. Moreover, don’t rely solely on the map above! In fact, the trails are ultimately almost all interconnected, and by combining them, you could also avoid the control points. For example, the Laguna Torre trail has several possible entrances, and the western one is free; in the end, you’ll reach the trail leading to Fitz Roy by taking a detour… And when returning from hikes/treks, the rangers don’t seem to check anything at all.

In short, we’re not encouraging you to cheat, but it is possible to slip through the net. We’re simply sharing the current situation with you – do as you see fit :). Ultimately, if you want peace of mind, buy your ticket (1 day, 2 days, or 3- or 7-day Flexipass). Otherwise, plan ahead by either getting up early or checking the trails on the maps.me app. Essentially (almost) all roads lead to Fitz Roy ;)!

Also, for certain hikes located outside the park, you’ll need to pay a separate entrance fee.

Last tips

• Stock up on supplies before arriving in El Chaltén if you can! While the village has several grocery stores/mini-markets, the prices are quite high and the selection is rather limited.
• As for equipment, we recommend bringing the same gear we used for Torres del Paine. The weather changes extremely frequently in Patagonia, so you need to be prepared for all conditions! Don’t forget hiking poles to save your knees, especially for the Laguna de los Tres trail ;). Several gear stores in the village offer equipment rental if needed.

Must-do hikes in El Chaltén

In this section, we’ll explore the 5 essential hikes we recommend if you’re staying less than 4 days in El Chaltén. While we’ve arranged them in the order we completed them, your schedule will likely depend more on the weather than anything else! Note: we spent 4 days in the area, and honestly, it wasn’t too much at all. So if you can, try to stay at least 4 days in El Chaltén! With a shorter stay, you run a higher risk of encountering unfavorable hiking weather…

Mirador El Paredón

• 4.7 km
• 321 m elevation gain
• 1 h 30 min
• Easy

This is a lovely little walk to do when you first arrive in El Chaltén. The viewpoint from Cerro Paredón offers a beautiful preview of the area’s splendor, with panoramic views of both the village and the surrounding mountain range. It’s an excellent way to stretch your legs and embrace the park’s beauty before tackling more challenging hikes!

Mount Fitz Roy and Laguna de los Tres

• 24 km
• 1040 m elevation gain
• 8-9 hours on average
• Hard

This is undoubtedly THE legendary hike of El Chaltén! Mount Fitz Roy is to Argentinian Patagonia what the famous Torres del Paine are to Chilean Patagonia! More accessible than the latter, you simply can’t leave the village without taking this popular trail!

While it’s called the Fitz Roy trail, it’s really more the Laguna de los Tres trail! The glacial lake is indeed dominated by this peak, but there’s more to it! Cerro Chaltén (commonly called Fitz Roy) is the highest peak of the granite massif at 3,405 m, surrounded by the Poincenot (3,002 m) and Saint-Exupéry (2,558 m) needles. Fun fact: you might have noticed that this massif is featured on the Patagonia clothing brand logo! 😉

The hike

The trailhead is at the north end of the village. About 1 km after the gate, take a short break at the Río de las Vueltas viewpoint for a lovely view of the eponymous river valley. The next few kilometers flow nicely until you reach the viewpoint near Laguna Capri, which means you’re nearly halfway there!

Once you pass Camp Poincenot, things get serious! The climb is steep… You’ll understand why the sign warns that good physical condition is necessary. After one final push over the last kilometer with 400 meters of elevation gain through the rocks, you’ll find yourself facing the imposing massif, rising behind the turquoise lagoon. Magnificent!

We were lucky – while the wind picked up, it was nothing like the gusts we’d heard about. Make sure to pack several layers of clothing, as there can be significant temperature differences between El Chaltén and the shores of Laguna de los Tres!

Once you’re at the lagoon’s edge, don’t head back right away – instead, turn left when facing the massif. Did you think there was only one lagoon at the end? Follow the trail that climbs through the rocks to reveal the beautiful Laguna Sucia below! Two turquoise lagoons with Fitz Roy as a backdrop – that final climb was worth it, wasn’t it? 😉

Mirador Fitz Roy at sunrise and Laguna Capri

• 17.6 km
• 600 m elevation gain
• 4 hours
• Intermediate

Now this, my friends, is absolutely worth setting your alarm for 3 a.m.! Sunrise over Fitz Roy is a unique spectacle that I couldn’t miss. Rather than redoing the Laguna de los Tres hike to reach the base of the granite mountains, I decided to return to the Fitz Roy viewpoint we’d passed the day before, near Laguna Capri. The trail is much easier, and the almost 360° view at daybreak is simply breathtaking.

So there I was, starting this morning trek by headlamp, leaving Fabienne and her father in the village. Once I arrived, all that remained was to wait for the first light. The sky was completely clear for once. And then, the show began. I was absolutely mesmerized. Without a doubt, I witnessed one of the most beautiful sunrises of my life.

For the return journey, rather than retracing my steps, I made a loop passing by Laguna Capri and the Torre viewpoint to experience another panorama with the golden light of dawn.

Note: If you’d like to watch the sunrise from the base of Fitz Roy, we’d recommend camping at Poincenot campground. This way, you’ll only have 2.5 km left to reach Laguna de los Tres. Making the entire journey from El Chaltén in the dark requires significant physical effort. Otherwise, the viewpoint works perfectly well too! And instead of following my route that loops back via the Mirador Torre, you can take a shorter loop (9.5 km with 430 m elevation gain). This will save you some kilometers if you’re planning another hike in the afternoon!

Laguna Torre

• 19 km
• 510 m elevation gain
• 6-7 hours
• Intermediate

The Mount Fitz Roy trail is physically demanding, and not everyone can manage it. However, to still enjoy the incredible views of the snow-capped and glaciated mountains, the Laguna Torre trail is perfect! This classic route is also an excellent way to recover from the intense effort required for Fitz Roy. The elevation gain is much more modest, and the landscapes are incredible. You can choose to stop at the viewpoint, which is about a third of the way to the lagoon – the panorama of Torre Glacier is already magnificent from there. This makes for a 7 km round trip with approximately 210 m elevation gain.

For those wanting to walk further, you can continue to the Mirador Maestri, which offers a stunning view of Torre glacier. This adds a 4.6 km round trip and 180 m elevation gain to the 19 km. The rocky trail starts from the water’s edge and follows Laguna Torre on the right.

At the time of writing, access to Laguna Torre is still free. Looking at maps.me, you’ll see there are several possible entrances, with the main one being at the end of Los Charitos street, next to La Torcida camping.

Loma Del Pliegue Tumbado

• 19 km
• 1140 m elevation gain
• 7 hours
• Hard

Do we regret not doing this day hike? A little… Often overlooked in favor of Fitz Roy, the Loma Del Pliegue Tumbado trail nonetheless promises breathtaking panoramic views of both Fitz Roy and its neighboring needles, plus Cerro Torre! It’s a winning combination for a trail that’s less known than the park’s star attraction. It might be slightly easier due to its constant slope, unlike Laguna de los Tres where the climbs are more challenging.

As with Fitz Roy, go when weather conditions are good, or you risk seeing nothing at all at the top. The trailhead is located south of El Chaltén, sharing the same entrance as the Los Condores and Las Águilas viewpoints.

More trails if you stay more than 4 days

To explore all the trails in the area, we’d have needed at least 4 extra days! Here’s a selection of hikes worth checking out if you’re staying more than 4 days in El Chaltén.

Day hikes

Mirador de los Cóndores and mirador de las Águilas

• 5.2 km
• 216 m elevation gain
• 2 hours
• Easy

Just like Mirador El Paredón, this short hike to Mirador de los Cóndores y de las Águilas is a great warm-up before tackling longer day hikes. It’s also a fantastic sunset spot! These viewpoints overlook El Chaltén, nestled between the mountains, with the endless Patagonian steppe stretching beyond. As the name suggests, keep an eye on the sky—you might spot condors soaring above!

Laguna Pollone

• 22 km
• 560 m elevation
• 7 hours
• Intermediate

Starting from Río Eléctrico, this off-the-beaten-path hike takes you through the valley carved by the Eléctrico River, past its namesake lake, before leading to Laguna Pollone, nestled at the foot of the Pollone Glacier. The landscapes are once again spectacular, but beware—the wind can be brutal!

Chorrillo del Salto

• 6.6 km
• 140 m elevation gain
• 2 hours
• Easy

This short hike takes you to the Chorrillo del Salto waterfall, located north of El Chaltén. We’d only really recommend it if you’ve already explored the other trails—because, let’s be honest, it’s just a waterfall tucked between some rocks, nothing too extraordinary. You can drive there and park nearby, but if you’re on foot, it’s still manageable. Just follow Route 23 out of town and connect to the trail a little further down to avoid the checkpoint.

Huemul Glacier and Lago del Desierto

• 3.2 km
• 210 m elevation gain
• 1 hour
• Easy

About an hour’s drive north of El Chaltén, this short hike leads you into the heart of the Lago del Desierto provincial reserve. The trail winds through the forest before revealing the stunning Huemul Lagoon and its glacier. Just take a look at this breathtaking spot!

One small downside: there’s an entrance fee of 10,000 pesos per person… To get there, check with the visitor center for shuttle schedules. Otherwise, try to find fellow travelers with a car. The drive takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes on a gravel road. Some agencies in El Chaltén also offer guided tours, combining the glacier visit with the nearby lake or other outdoor activities like mountain biking.

Multi-days treks

Laguna Toro and Paso del Viento

• 53.5 km
• 2615 m elevation gain
• 2 days
• Hard

Now we’re entering another league… First off, you’ll need a permit from the El Chaltén visitor center to embark on this demanding trek. Then, be ready to face potentially extreme conditions over two days. Some sections require specialized gear, including a harness and carabiners, to cross two rivers using zip lines (yes, really). In short, this isn’t for everyone! If you want detailed insights and advice, check out Serge and Darya’s article on the trek.

Cerro Huemul Circuit (Vuelta al Huemul)

• 67 km
• 2840 m elevation gain
• 4 days
• Very hard

Want to take it even further than Paso del Viento (“Wind Pass”)? This epic loop circles Cerro Huemul, a 2,677-meter peak. Along the way, you’ll experience nearly deserted trails, more zip-line crossings, jaw-dropping views of the massive Viedma Glacier (part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field), panoramic vistas from Huemul Pass, and—of course—the relentless Patagonian wind. This trek is strictly for seasoned hikers!

For an in-depth look at this epic multi-day trek, check out Bianca’s stunning photos and Josh and Alex’s post.

Other things to do in El Chaltén

El Chaltén is Argentina’s undisputed trekking capital, but if you have a rest day, there are still plenty of cool things to do! Here are some ideas, ranging from culture to adventure:

• Visit Casa Madsen to learn about the region’s history, the village’s founding, and its first settlers. The 1.5-hour tour is a great option if the weather isn’t ideal for hiking or after a half-day on the trails. You can book tickets online. To get there, follow the dirt road across the bridge—the same one leading to Cerro Paredón’s viewpoint. Instead of turning right to the summit, go left! It’s about 2.3 km from the center of El Chaltén.
• Go rafting on the Vueltas River.
• Explore Vespignani Glacier up close.
• Try rock climbing…

And there you have it—everything you need to know about El Chaltén! Now you see why it’s considered a trekking paradise in Argentina. Which trail are you most excited about? Have any questions? Drop us a comment! As for us, this marks the end of our South American adventure. And without a doubt, it has left a lasting mark on our hearts!

Pin it