Northern Peru: Chiclayo and Trujillo

After nearly 3 months in Ecuador, as our visa was coming to an end, we decided it was time for a change! A new country and a new environment awaited us – heading north to Peru for a rendezvous with history! This was our opportunity to delve into the often overlooked pre-Inca civilizations, overshadowed by the fame of the Incas. For this purpose, the cities of Chiclayo and Trujillo were prime locations. Let us share the details in this article!

Crossing the border between Ecuador and Peru

Precautions

Let me assure you, we had heard quite a bit about the border between Ecuador and Peru. Common advice was to avoid crossing at Huasquilas and to travel during the day for safety reasons. We also knew that assaults in the border area were frequent, no bus provided direct service despite what agencies claimed, and we had to take a taxi to cross the border, etc. So, we were a bit apprehensive…

Our experience

Well, believe it or not, in the end, we found ourselves crossing the Huasquilas border at 2:30 in the morning! Here’s our experience:

• 9:30 p.m.: Meeting at the Cuenca bus terminal with our Super Semara bus tickets in hand.
• 10 p.m.: The bus departs on time! And not just any bus, a gigantic bus with ultra-comfortable seats that recline almost horizontally (what they call cama). Bags are stowed in the compartment at no additional cost.
• 2:30 a.m.: The journey goes smoothly until the Huasquilas border post.
• There, a modern building awaits us with armed guards outside ensuring travelers’ safety. We disembark, leaving our bags in the compartment (the bus parks in front of the building, and we always have a view of the vehicle from customs).
• The customs itself is well organized with 2 counters side by side. The first for exiting Ecuadorian territory, and the second for entering Peruvian territory. A quick 9-minute wait to get our exit stamp and Peruvian stamp!
• 2:50 a.m.: The bus resumes its journey towards the Peruvian cities of Tumbes (arrival at 3:15 a.m.), Mancora (arrival around 4:30 a.m.), Piura (arrival around 6:30 a.m.), and finally Chiclayo (at 10:00 a.m.).

In conclusion

As you can see, this border crossing between Ecuador and Peru went smoothly, with a good night’s sleep as a bonus. Moreover, it’s by far the most modern and well-organized border we encountered throughout the journey! Despite South America’s not-so-great reputation, things are changing! The journey from Cuenca to Chiclayo cost us around twenty dollars per person for a 12-hour trip.

The Sechura desert

After a rather pleasant night in wide and comfortable seats (a welcome change from Asia), I wake up slowly with the daylight. I take a look outside, and to my surprise, I realize there’s nothing! It’s a desert as far as the eye can see! Quite a contrast from Ecuador… Similar to the Atacama Desert in Chile, the Sechura Desert is considered exceptional and needs protection.

It seems that the entire Peruvian coast up to Chile is also arid. It must be challenging to live in such a desert space. We pass through several small, very poor villages in northern Peru. What do they live on? It must be difficult to grow anything on these lands. Yet, as you will see, people have managed to live on the Peruvian coast for centuries.

Things to do in Chiclayo

Explore the city of Chiclayo

So, we arrive in Chiclayo, the 4^th largest city in Peru. The city itself doesn’t have anything incredibly remarkable to offer. Although the Plaza de Armas and the few streets in the center are pleasant, most of the city is just a dusty concrete mess. Quick cultural note: the Plaza de Armas is often the name given to the main square of a city that was under Spanish rule during the conquistador era.

As in several South American cities we’ve visited, most buildings are unfinished, and facades are unpainted. It seems like they always leave the option to build another floor!

Learn more about the pre-Inca period

So, why did we stop in Chiclayo? Well, it’s in this region, precisely in the Huaca Rajada pyramid to the east, that one of the most significant archaeological discoveries of the last 50 years was made: the tomb of the Lord of Sipán. But to better understand who this famous Lord of Sipán was, let me briefly tell you about the Moches (pronounced Motché) or Mochicas civilization. It was a pre-Inca civilization that dominated the entire northern coast of Peru between 100 and 800 AD.

Pre-Inca civilizations

The Moches

As you can imagine, to survive in a desert, the Moches had to have a well-developed technique. They were masters in the construction of irrigation channels to water their plantations and optimize the limited water at their disposal.

In addition to diverting rivers, the Moches excelled in pottery, weaving, and metallurgy. If you visit the Lord of Sipán museum, you’ll undoubtedly be impressed by the precision and details of the various pieces. It’s no wonder that the Incas assimilated their know-how during their expansion. The Incas were much better at war than at art!

The Moches were not organized around a single king; there were indeed several lords (like the one from Sipán) spread along the northern coast. They lived autonomously but shared the same customs and traditions. Moreover, several other similar tombs have been discovered in Peru, but most of them have unfortunately been looted. That’s what makes the Lord of Sipán’s tomb so unique. It remained untouched and is full of treasures.

Tumbas Reales de Sipán Museum

Local authorities understood the value of what they had discovered. They had the excellent idea of building what is probably the most modern and well-designed museum in Peru: the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipán, the Museum of the Royal Tombs of Sipán. We highly recommend it to learn more about this lesser-known civilization.

A downside, though: photography is prohibited inside the museum. As a result, we don’t have much to show you. Nevertheless, we were lucky. We arrived at the museum on the anniversary of the discovery of the Lord of Sipán. As a result, we got half-price admission and enjoyed a fantastic traditional Peruvian dance performance in front of the museum. Classy, right?

The Brüning museum

Also in Lambayeque is the Brüning National Archaeological Museum, one of the oldest museums around Chiclayo. Over 4 levels, you’ll see over a thousand pottery, ceramics, and other objects dating from pre-Hispanic times (Moche, Sicán, Inca civilizations, etc.). It is open every day from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., with an entrance ticket of 8 soles per person, and the museum is free on the first Sunday of the month.

The pyramids of Túcume and the Túcume site museum

Yes! Who would have thought that there were pyramids somewhere other than in Egypt and Mexico!? Túcume is referred to as the Valley of the Pyramids, quite a title! So, don’t expect Giza-like pyramids… Built by the Sicáns, these 26 adobe monuments (a mixture of sand, clay, and water) have lost some of their splendor due to erosion but remain impressive.

3 circuits are possible to walk among the pyramids (huacas):

• route A to the north: the museum + walk around the pyramids + access to the viewpoint (8 soles for adults/70 soles per group for a guided tour);
• route B to the south, longer: the museum + Huaca Las Balsas, the best-preserved (8 soles for adults/70 soles per group for a guided tour);
• combo A + B (12 soles for adults/100 soles for a guide).

There is little basic information on the site. If you’re not going to Trujillo (where you’ll get additional information), we recommend taking a guide to visit Túcume.

The Museum of the Huaca Rajada-Sipán Site (Museo de Sitio Huaca Rajada-Sipán)

It’s in the Huaca Rajada pyramid, east of Chiclayo, that the famous tomb of the Lord Sipán was discovered. The museum offers a deep dive into Moche culture with royal and cultural objects found during excavations and a visit to the archaeological site. It’s a good complement to the Museum of the Royal Tombs of Sipán.

The beaches of Pimentel and Santa Rosa

Chiclayo is not just a historical stop in Peru! To take a break after these archaeological visits, we recommend heading to the Peruvian coast. The beaches of Pimentel and Santa Rosa allow you to escape the urban hustle and bustle of Chiclayo for a day. Minibusses regularly shuttle from the city to discover the calm of the ocean. On the agenda: walking on the Pimentel pier, the largest in the country; admiring the sunset and the artisanal work of coastal fishermen on their caballito de totora, the ancestral Peruvian canoe.

The Chaparri Ecological Reserve

This time, head east to meet the animals of the Chaparri Ecological Reserve (Área de Conservación Privada Chaparrí). Here, endemic and endangered species such as the spectacled bear, Andean condor, and white-winged guan coexist. A guide is required to enter this protected area. You can take a tour, spend a night on-site, or go to Chongoyape, at the reserve‘s entrance, where you’ll find guides for the day.

Getting to Chiclayo

From Quito

From the capital of Ecuador, you have two transport options: bus or plane. By bus, the idea is to first reach Cuenca at night and then take a second vehicle to cross the border and go to Chiclayo. This will cost you around forty dollars per person.

By plane, you can imagine it will be faster but more expensive. The journey between Quito and Chiclayo is not direct, and you will most likely have a layover in Lima… In terms of price, expect at least 250 dollars each for over 8 hours of travel. Compare tickets here.

From Cuenca

The journey between Cuenca in Ecuador and Chiclayo by bus is quite smooth, as mentioned here!

From Huaraz

There is no direct route between Huaraz and Chiclayo. Therefore, you have to pass through Trujillo, and we provide all the details here.

From Lima

Here too, you have two options: by land on a bus or by air. By bus, you can choose from various companies. It will cost you roughly 30 dollars for a comfortable overnight bus ride, similar to the one we took to cross the border. By plane, the journey takes just under 2 hours for a cost of around 50 dollars.

Where to stay in Chiclayo

For our part, we stayed in a hostel outside the city center of Chiclayo, but we recommend other hotels based on your schedule:

• Casa Patrones: in the center of Chiclayo, this hotel offers all the necessary comfort with an excellent breakfast at a reasonable price. Perfect for exploring the city and taking transportation to explore the surroundings.
• La Posada Norteña: in Lambayeque, this budget hotel is well-located for visiting archaeological museums and going to the pyramids of Túcume.
• Best View of Pimentel: this room with a private bathroom and a nice view of the ocean is ideal for a relaxing moment on Pimentel beach.

 

Things to do in Trujillo

City presentation

After learning a bit more about the Moches, we then traveled a bit further south to the third-largest city and also the cultural capital of Peru, Trujillo! Nicknamed the city of eternal spring due to its mild temperatures throughout the year, Trujillo will charm you, whether you are passionate about the archaeological history of the region or not!

To be honest, we preferred Trujillo to Chiclayo. The historic center is larger, better preserved, and it is much more pleasant to stroll on foot amid the magnificent colonial buildings, a legacy of the Spanish conquistadors. Don’t miss the Plaza de Armas, the main square, the Trujillo Cathedral, and Casa Urquiaga! If you prefer a guided tour of the city, we recommend this one.

Returning to Peruvian history, Trujillo was already a key location for Moche culture before becoming the capital of the Chimú civilization, worthy heirs of the Moches. Then, the Incas got involved before the Spaniards laid the foundations of the current Trujillo. It was the first city in Peru to declare its independence from Spain.

Temples of the moon and the sun

We first reconnected with our friends the Moches by visiting the temples of the sun (Huaca del Sol) and the moon (Huaca de la Luna), which are, along with the tomb of the Lord of Sipán, the largest remains of this civilization.

Huaca del Sol (or Huaca Capuxaida)

The temple of the sun was one of the largest adobe buildings of the pre-Hispanic period: 345 meters long, 160 meters wide, and 40 meters high. But looters took their toll over time, and today, two-thirds of this political center have been destroyed.

Huaca de la Luna

The temple of the moon consists of two truncated pyramids. Entirely made of earth, only the privileged entered to worship the gods or offer their lives. This site dedicated to religion is simply remarkable, especially with the murals that have managed to survive over time, revealing the culture of the Mochicas.

During the visit, we learned more about the main deity of the Moches, Ai-apaec. Here, this god is represented as a spider, a crab, but also with different moods… I don’t know about you, but I eventually found this deity quite frightening! It’s not for nothing that he is nicknamed the strangler or decapitator god. In fact, the Moches often practiced human sacrifices to appease Ai-apaec. This way, they obtained better crops and a milder climate.

The museo Santiago Uceda Castillo

A few hundred meters to the south is the Huacas de Moche museum (or Santiago Uceda Castillo). Opened in 2010, it consists of several rooms highlighting the city that was located between the two huacas, religion, daily life, and power in Mochica culture. It is also a center for research and conservation of archaeological work.

We recommend it before visiting the temples of the moon and the sun to better understand their extent and specificities. The entrance ticket is set at 5 soles for adults, and the opening hours are 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. from Tuesday to Sunday.

The city of Chan Chan, capital of the Chimú kingdom

After a good meal, we headed to the city of Chan Chan, the ancient capital of the Chimú civilization that succeeded the Moches between 1000 and 1470. At that time, Chan Chan was the largest city built entirely of adobe bricks, giving you a good indication of the current state of the infrastructure! Today, the archaeological complex of Chan Chan is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and only 1/10^th of the site is open to travelers. However, it is well worth the visit.

History of the complex and the Chimú civilization

For the record, the Moches are said to have been caught off guard by El Niño, and floods would have pushed them to retreat higher into the mountains. Their descendants would then have returned to the coast and perpetuated Mochica traditions through the Chimú civilization. To be honest, I found many similarities between the two civilizations, whether in their pottery, metalwork, or agriculture.

However, the size of the city of Chan Chan is quite impressive: several tens of thousands of people lived in the city spread over 20 km². The urban center had a particular structure to separate the elites from the common people. It consisted of citadels, temples, and separate housing for the middle classes and the people. Chan Chan was clearly the capital of the Chimú empire that extended along the entire Peruvian coast, and even further south than the current capital Lima!

However, despite being excellent in many areas, the Chimús ran into trouble around 1470: the Inca’s desire for expansion from Cusco. After a long campaign and several battles, the Chimus were annexed to the Inca empire, which was then at its peak… but not for long! 50 years later, the Spanish conquistadors appeared and dealt with the Incas. We’ll talk more about the Incas and conquistadors as our Peruvian journey unfolds!

Fun fact: do you see the statuette in the Tintin album The Broken Ear? Well, Hergé was largely inspired by a statuette from the Chimú civilization!

El Brujo

The El Brujo archaeological complex is the last witness site of the Mochica civilization to have opened its doors to visitors (2006). So, we go back to the Moches who erected other pyramids here (Huaca Cao Viejo, Huaca Prieta, Huaca Cortada). Their peculiarity? This is where the mummy of Lady Cao, a member of the elite of Mochica society, was found and is displayed at the superb adjacent Cao Museum.

The entrance is priced at 10 soles, and the complex is open every day from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Further away than the other sites, you will need 1 hour by minibus from the center of Trujillo or take a guided tour.

Huanchaco

We can’t talk about Trujillo without mentioning Huanchaco, the beach resort popular with Peruvians. Like in Chiclayo, it’s an opportunity to see traditional boats, caballitos de totora, take a break on the beach, but also admire the surfers (or even try it yourself!) and taste the famous ceviches 😋. Take a seat on a minibus for a half-hour journey for a few soles per ticket, or end your guided day around history and archaeology there.

The marinera festival

Are you in Trujillo in January? Don’t miss the marinera festival, this typical dance of Peru that unleashes crowds! Often practiced in pairs, this dance exudes a certain sensuality thanks to the seduction game of the two protagonists. This festival is also an opportunity to attend a contest of Peruvian paso horses. However, you can watch marinera shows throughout the year.

Getting to Trujillo

From Quito

From the capital of Ecuador, it is possible to reach Trujillo by bus. To do this, you first need to go to Chiclayo and then take another bus. We provide all the details just below. It is also possible by taking a plane, but considering the prices (several hundred dollars) and the limited number of flights, we advise against it.

From Chiclayo

Trujillo is only 200 km from Chiclayo, and this route is easily covered by bus (4 hours and 30 minutes). You have the choice between the following companies (tickets cost approximately 10 dollars per person):

• Ittsa Bus;
• Cruz Del Sur;
• Emtrafesa.

From Huaraz

Several companies share the Huaraz-Trujillo route with comfortable night buses (cama or sleeper/reclining seats) for 20 dollars and an 8-hour journey. Reserve your seats here or there.

From Lima

Trujillo is less than 600 km north of Lima. Flights operate daily between the two cities. Airplane tickets cost approximately 30-50 dollars for a 1-hour flight. By bus, a ticket for an overnight bus costs about 20 dollars for a 9-hour journey. Purchase your tickets at the best price here or there.

Hotels in Trujillo

There is no shortage of good hotels and B&Bs in Trujillo. However, we recommend staying near the city center to visit the historic part and easily take public transportation. Here is our selection for all budgets!

• 717 Pizarro guesthouse: this guesthouse is very well located for an unbeatable quality/price ratio!
• Hostal Donde Alberto: this hostal offers comfortable rooms and is a stone’s throw from the Trujillo Cathedral for a reasonable price!
• Yaqta Hostel: for backpackers, this colorful hostel is right in the center for a pleasant stay in Trujillo. A dorm bed costs 11 dollars (30 soles)..
• Hotel Portada Del Sol: this hotel offers excellent services for a very reasonable price.
• entire apartment: Trujillo has many entire accommodations for the same price as a good hotel. If you’re looking for a bit more tranquility, this is the perfect plan!

Review of our first steps in Peru

So, this is our visit to Chiclayo and Trujillo, exploring pre-Inca civilizations. We found it interesting to arrive in Peru from the north to learn more about these peoples, often in the shadow of the Incas and their famous Machu Picchu, Peru’s superstar.

Now, we invite you very soon to the Cordillera Blanca, where we were amazed by breathtaking mountains! Are you coming? 😉

Pin it