I don’t know if you remember, but our initial plan after our trip to Turkey (before returning urgently to take care of Fabienne’s grandmother) was actually to keep going to Bulgaria to spend a few weeks in the village of Bansko to work and discover the region a little. We had already spotted this village before our departure because we had heard a lot of good from the coworking that settled there as well as from its growing community of digital nomads and entrepreneurs. So our idea was to settle there for a while before continuing our journey through the Balkans to Switzerland.
But as usual, nothing went as planned. But we still wanted to test life and work in Bansko. So after 3 bus rides and two stops along the way (in Zagreb and Budapest), we arrived at the foot of the Pirin Mountains in the village of Bansko in Bulgaria.
- Why come to Bansko in Bulgaria exactly?
- The Coworking Bansko: How does it work?
- Our Budget in Bansko
- Our opinion about the digital nomad community in Bansko
- How to find an apartment in Bansko
- Where to shop in Bansko?
- Internet and mobile data in Bansko
- Where to walk and get some fresh air around Bansko
- Our favorite restaurants and bars in Bansko
- We tested the doctor and the dentist in Bansko!
- We tried to neuter wild cats in Bansko
- Our map of Bansko
Why come to Bansko in Bulgaria exactly?
There are obviously several reasons why we came to Bansko in Bulgaria for one month:
The Coworking and its community: That’s clearly the first reason we came here. Since we tested coliving in Tenerife, we now understand the real added value of having people who have a similar lifestyle and interests around us. And that’s why we came to Bansko: to find a creative environment where we could work in a productive way and meet people.
Bansko coworking was founded at the end of 2016 by Uwe and Matthias who had the rather crazy idea of transforming Bansko into a kind of base for digital nomads. And I have to say that they succeeded because during our stay, there were more than 100 people registered for coworking, events almost every day and the Bansko community is now widely recognized in the small world of digital nomads.
Useful Infos
There are several ways to get to Bansko in Bulgaria but in any case you will first have to go to Sofia which is accessible by train, bus or plane (of course we recommend the bus and train which are more ecological means of transport). From Sofia you will have 3 possibilities:
- Local buses: From the Sofia bus station, there are buses to Bansko all day long (even more in winter than in summer). Count 2h30 – 3h by bus and we paid 16LEV (8€) per ticket.See the timetable and prices
- Private transport: If you don’t want to bother, you could also take a taxi from Sofia to Bansko. However, it costs between 50 and 70€ (2 hours of travel) for a private taxi. On Getyourguide you’ll however find transfer options for less than 30€!
Coworking Bansko: how does it work?
The coworking Bansko (at the time of our visit in August 2019) had 2 spaces (there are 3 now) at different places in Bansko:
- a space with 16 work places near the cable car.
- another larger space in the centre of the village with a quiet space (16 work places and silence is required) and a social space (20-25 work places where you can talk). There are also tables in the garden and when the weather’s good many people prefer to work outside.
- (When we left, a new space was being prepared at the “four leaf clover” apartment complex and was scheduled to open in September)
In each space, there is a kitchen with coffee/tea available and of course a strong wifi! (and frankly the wifi was very stable during our month in Bansko).
But the coworking Bansko is above all an active community and very diverse events almost every day (sometimes even several a day). Between coworkers’ presentations on various subjects (business, personal development, tech etc…), game nights, movie nights, dinners to restaurants, thermal baths, mountains, BBQs, yoga classes and so on… you will have to choose what really interests you if you want to keep some time to work. 😉
How much does coworking Bansko cost?
The price of access to coworking and events is 129€ per month / person (decreasing prices with duration. Price details here) (Update 2024: price is 149€ now). It’s a pretty standard price for a coworking and frankly we think it’s well worth it for the infrastructure and all the events organized.
On the other hand, what we found a little strange is that on the home page of their site there are also packages that include the coworking subscription, the transfer from Sofia and the apartment (or guesthouse), plus some little things that are not essential. So obviously when we saw the prices of the packages the first time on the site we thought it was unbeatable… but with hindsight we advise you not to choose the package.
Let me explain…. In these packages, there is the round trip transfer from Sofia airport (price 110€) which is optional (so if you manage by your own means to get in and out of Bansko, you will pay 110€ less). In our case, as we arrived by bus in Sofia, we simply preferred to take a local bus to Bansko which is already much cheaper than the transfer (8€ / pers). So we took the apartment pack for 1 month with 2 abos for coworking… which cost us 585€!
So I know it’s already very cheap… but nevertheless, when you break down the price, there are still more than 100€ that disappear into the wild for nothing. In fact, 2 abos to coworking cost 258€, an apartment for a month will cost you between 150€ and 250€ (we paid 210€ for a 50m2 apartment with a bedroom, a large kitchen/livingroom and a terrace)…. which makes a total of 468€! So I know that there is the service to avoid having to find an apartment yourself… but believe me, you don’t need someone to do it for you. We’ll talk about it later, but it’s very easy to find an apartment in Bansko yourself.
Useful Infos
If you need more information about Bansko and coworking, you will find a lot in this google doc or on the coworking wiki
Our Budget in Bansko: Bulgaria even cheaper than Asia
Come on, let’s not beat around the bush and get down to the numbers. As you will see, Bansko in Bulgaria is an extremely cheap destination. It is therefore not surprising that so many digital nomads choose this place as their base.
Honestly, during our month in Bansko we didn’t try to spend as little as possible. As I explained earlier, if knew we could have saved more than 100€ by organizing our own accommodation (the coworking would have gone from 375€ to 258€).
And as you can see in the “restaurants” section, we had a lot of fun at this level and we didn’t cook much at the apartment (we could probably have saved 200€ on that side too). So I’ll tell you more about our favorite restaurants in Bansko, but for 3-5€ you can eat a good meal on a terrace near the coworking (and frankly even if it’s not high gastronomy, there are quite a few different options, with or without meat). And in the evening, since we were also there to meet people, we participated in a lot of events that often ended in restaurants and bars.
On the transport side, we spent little because we stayed around the village of Bansko (we did a lot of work since we translated our site into English). We only took the bus several times to get to the Pirin National Park to go hiking.
The digital nomad community in Bansko: a not entirely positive verdict
As I told you earlier, even more than coworking, it was the community and the encounters that we came to Bansko for. So I don’t know if our expectations were a little high after our dream experience in Tenerife, but the fact is that we come back from Bansko with a not 100% positive opinion on the Bansko digital nomad community.
- The first thing is that throughout our month in Bansko there were more than 100 people registered for coworking. That’s still a much larger number than the 10-15 people we lived with at Nine Coliving in Tenerife. So we found it more difficult to break the ice and go a little further than the usual small talk… and we had a little more difficulty meeting people with whom the flow was really good (a dozen people in 1 month… and yet it’s not for lack of having participated in events and drinks 😉 ). Anyway, 100 people is certainly too many for us. After that we stayed only 1 month and maybe if we stayed longer we would have found our tribe…
- But the second thing that disturbed us the most was the very business/profit at all costs state of mind and the lack of passion/ethics that was emerging from part of the community. To be honest, we quickly realized in Bansko that there were not only inspiring people among the Digital Nomads and that we weren’t going to get along with everyone (I know it’s like that all over the world but we thought maybe…).
As far as we are concerned, if we have adopted this way of life, it is also to have the flexibility to work on projects that fascinate us and that have meaning for us (even if we earn less than when we were working in Zurich). As I explained to you not so long ago in this article (besides, if you haven’t read it yet, I’d be curious to know what you think about it), we have a vision of success that goes more in the direction of sobriety and simple happiness than the number of zeroes on our bank account. But in Bansko we realized that there were also many nomads who did not have this state of mind at all and who are ready to do anything to earn more, to have always more comfort, to the obvious detriment of common sense, the health of the planet and ethics. The “6-7 business figures” as the Americans say sometimes are almost an obsession…
To give you one example among others, we did hear someone explain to us that he had used the event of a shooting in a school in the US as a business opportunity…
But maybe that after all we didn’t come at the right time… because we have to admit that coworking Bansko is doing everything to encourage encounters and interactions with events, social space… Moreover, one interesting thing to note is that a good part of the presentations, yoga classes, hikes (or others) are directly organized on a voluntary basis by coworkers on their own initiative. It’s still pretty cool when you think about it and all the credit goes to Uwe and Matthias for creating an environment where people offer these kinds of things on their own.
How to find an apartment in Bansko
So I’m going to talk about our experience in summer (in winter it’s a little different because there are more people with skiing and prices are going up a little) but it’s very easy to find an apartment in Bansko during the summer season. Honestly, the only thing you have to do is take a look at this website from Coworking Bansko with lots of contacts from people who rent apartments, make one or two phone calls and you will have an apartment in less than 5 minutes.
It is also very easy to find a place to stay by looking directly on Booking.com. For shorter stays this is actually the best option. But if you decide to stay 1 month (or more) then it might be worth getting in touch with the building you are considering and ask whether they offer monthly prices.
On our side we stayed at the “four leaf clover”, a group of 4 buildings with apartments of different sizes and it was really very good for the price (210€ / month). We had an apartment of about 50m2 with one bedroom, a large living room with an open kitchen and 2 balconies overlooking the mountains. What more could you ask for? The only small drawback was the rather unstable internet… but well, we were compensating with mobile data (it’s very cheap in Bulgaria and it works really well… I’m talking about it below) and since we were working from the coworking it was not really a problem (especially since the four leaf clover will soon have a coworking space on its premises 😉 ).
Where to shop in Bansko (the Sunday market)
Bansko is a little bit divided into two parts. The upper part of the village near the cable car (which is a little dead in summer) and the normal village which is the place to live during the low season. So in summer, many shops are closed in the upper part of the village and it is therefore downstairs that you will be able to do your shopping more easily.
The important thing to know is that every Sunday there is a local farmers’ market in the village square. You will find everything you need (fruits, vegetables, cheeses etc…) to buy directly from the producers. That’s where we did most of our shopping for the week. In summer, Bulgarian tomatoes are delicious, so are wild berries and there is even a couple from England (they live on the border with Macedonia) who sell a really delicious Camembert type cheese! Anyway… it’s the event of the week not to be missed.
Otherwise, if you need other things during the week, there is a small supermarket close to the 2 roundabouts at the bottom of the village. For fruit and vegetables, there is also a shop with good products at this spot just after the 2nd roundabout (see on the map). If you have a car there is also a Lidl in Razlog a few kms from Bansko.
Internet and mobile data in Bansko
At the coworking, there is no problem with the internet which works great even when 50 people are connected to it! On the other hand, a lot of coworkers (including us) had problems with wifi in the different apartments. What we advise you to do, instead of having a hard time with the apartment managers, is to buy a local sim card and use your mobile phone as a wifi hotspot. There is a Telnor store right next to the coworking (see map) which offers 30GB sim cards for something like 10€ and it works very well. Alternative: get an e-sim for the duration of your stay
Where to walk and get some fresh air around Bansko
If you want to walk or hike near Bansko, there are plenty of possibilities! So we explored the Pirin National Park just above Bansko which offers great day hiking opportunities and even multi-day hikes with overnight in a hut. If you have a car, there is also the Rila Mountains National Park, which is not very far away (but which we have not explored)
In Bansko itself, there are also 2-3 nice places to walk for a few hours at the end of the day:
- At the end of the village behind the “four leaf clover”, there is a track that goes through the fields passing by a small lake (with a nice restaurant to eat a snack or have a drink at sunset). It was also my favorite place to do a morning jog before going to coworking.
- On the other side of the village (in the upper part) behind St. Ivan, there is another small and very nice lake with a restaurant. From the lake there are also some trails that go into the forest for short walks at the end of the day.
- If you continue to climb from the gondola, there are several trails that also start in the forest or along the river.
- If you don’t feel like walking but more in the mood for some thermal bath, you can check out this package on Getyourguide. This pack covers the the entrance + transfer to the thermal bath in Banya.
Our favorite restaurants and bars in Bansko
Below you will find a small list of our favorite restaurants and bars in Bansko. Honestly, for a ski resort like Bansko, there is a great diversity and a lot of choices (even if it is not haute cuisine). And for us who try to eat much less meat, we have never had any problem finding interesting vegetarian options. So here is our little list (you can find them all on our map):
- Chalet Yanitza: Located 2 minutes walk from the coworking, it had become our canteen and we ate there easily every other day. Ivan, the owner of the place, is a very welcoming person and offers a homemade and seasonal cuisine (often with vegetables from his garden). He also understood that some coworkers don’t eat meat and offers some interesting vegetarian options for low prices. Their facebook page.
- Le petit Nicolas: Without a doubt “the place to be” if you want to eat good bread, a delicious sandwich or a pastry with one of the best coffees in Bansko. Nicki the owner lived in France and the least we can say is that he learned the job of pastry and bakery well. The place is very small (there are only 3 tables) but it is also possible to take away. His facebook page.
- Oscar wine bar: Restaurant and wine bar but a little more chic than the average (a little more expensive too 😉 ), this is the place where you should come if you have something to celebrate and want to try the best wines in Bulgaria. The cuisine is delicious and local and goes perfectly with the wines. Their facebook page.
- Fisherman’s meet: The restaurant by the small lake I mentioned above (behind the leaf clover oven). The place is beautiful especially at sunset and it is possible to catch your fish which will then be cooked in the restaurant (there is no obligation to catch your fish of course 😉 ). The prices are also very cheap!
- Wine bar #25: A great bar with a very nice selection of Bulgarian wines (as good as Oscar’s) and cheese or cold meat platters to taste while enjoying a good glass of wine. The prices are also very correct. Their facebook page.
- Damyanitza: Another perfect restaurant for lunch break. Located 5 minutes from coworking, this restaurant offers generous portions for a very small price. For vegetarians there are really quite a few options… unfortunately we discovered this address only at the end of our stay otherwise we might have alternated more with the chalet Yanitza.
Five M: With Oscar wine bar it is probably the best restaurant we tried in Bansko (in memory it was also the most expensive). The food was really delicious and above all the service was at the top notch (and this is very rare in Bansko). If you have something to celebrate or want to indulge yourself, it’s an excellent address. Their facebook page.
We tested the doctor and the dentist in Bansko!
You can imagine that even if we have a nomadic lifestyle, we have to go to the doctor or dentist from time to time. So as much for the dentist we had been quite conscientious (we were once in Chiang Mai and once in France during the last 3 years), as much I had not been to the doctor since Vienna 8 years ago I believe #ShameOnMe. So we thought that if we were going to spend a month in Bansko, we might as well take the opportunity to do our check-ups in Bulgaria where these things are much cheaper.
The “Family Dental” dentist: This was the good surprise for the dentist. This couple of dentists speak excellent English and have a very clean and modern practice. The only difference with Swiss standards is that there is no dental assistant (so no one with the small saliva vacuum cleaner) and therefore you have to spit more often. But otherwise for a control with cleaning it was perfect and we paid 45€ for both. 🙂
Blagoveshtenie Medical Centre: However, our medical check-up was less conclusive than the visit to the dentist. Our goal was to do a simple check up with a blood test to check if everything was normal. So frankly for the checkup we had the impression that it was a joke… it lasted 2 minutes each! Unfortunately, the doctor didn’t speak very good English (again I understand… we’re in Bulgaria so we have to be flexible but it’s a little disabling to communicate with the doctor) and he just checked us with a stethoscope and checked if we had a good balance… and that’s all! We then took a blood sample which was sent to Sofia for testing (we got the results the next day and everything was normal except Fabienne who had her liver values a little too high lol;) ). On the other hand, when it was time to pay, the invoice was given to us directly in euros and was rather expensive for Bulgaria… more than 300€ for a small 2-minute checkup and a blood test… I doubt that this is the price that Bulgarians pay for the same service but good. In short, we advise against this clinic as you will have understood it.
We participated in the Bansko cat neutering project
One of the things that is also important to us and for which we would like to invest a little more time in destinations where we settle for a longer period of time is to participate in projects that aim to solve local problems. For example, in Tenerife we organized a “clean up walk” to clean up the beach of Puerto de la Cruz and raise awareness about the problem of plastic in the oceans.
So when we met Carole, a Swiss German nomad who had embarked on the project to neuter the street cats of Bansko (a 100 to start 😉 ), we immediately wanted to help her. It should be noted that in Bansko (and Bulgaria in general), animal neutering is clearly not a standard and that there is a real problem with street cats that are proliferating. Did you know that an unneutered cat (and its descendants) can produce more than 20,000 cats and kittens in 4 years? And the problem for most of these cats is that they will die either from hunger or cold during the winter….
So twice a week, we would meet with some volunteers from the coworking and the village to catch cats in the streets of Bansko (I’ll pass you the details but it’s not easy at all 😉 ). Once the cats were caught, they had to be prevented from eating for 6-12 hours before being taken to the vet to be neutered. Then we would collect the cats and keep them for another 2 days after the operation before bringing them back and releasing them where they had been found. So for this project we mainly needed people to catch cats, feed them and clean the cages and also some money to pay for food and veterinary expenses.
It was a good experience for us because not only did we become friends with Carole, but we also learned a lot about the issues related to this kind of project. In this case, the most difficult thing was to find people willing to give a little of their time to catch cats or clean the cages… We were quite surprised to see how easily we raised almost 1500€ for the project but at the same time how few people were willing to give a little of their time to help make it happen… But anyway, when we left Bansko we had already neutered between 20 and 30 cats!
Our map of Bansko
Here is our map of Bansko where you will find all the addresses mentioned in the article:
That’s the end of this article about our coworking experience in the village of Bansko in Bulgaria. So even if we didn’t have a 100% positive experience in the community, we must admit that we had a super productive month, we had great hikes, we met some great people and we saved a lot of money thanks to the absolutely unbeatable cost of living in Bansko. The result is therefore rather positive and we do not exclude coming back during a period when we have a lot of work… maybe even in winter to test Bansko under the snow and take out our skis (which we have not used for too long).
We wish you a nice weekend and we are about to leave for the Canary Islands at the end of the month to test Gan Canaria and go back to see the Nine Coliving Family in Tenerife;)
And you? Would you like to test coworking in Bansko?
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Matthias
Thank you for this amazing review. (especially now that I have found out there is a French and an English version!)
The only thing that makes me a little bit sad is that you felt that the community is very focussed on money and lacks ethics and passion. I thought we are way better than the average nomad in this respect.
Especially after you gave many examples in the article where members are very generous with their time and skills. Organizing events for others in the community, teaching free yoga sessions, raising funds for cats and puppies and donating themselves, helping with neutering street cats, providing free coaching and advice to other members etc.
The focus when I started Coworking Bansko was always to create an environment where members compete in generousity. We were growing a little bit faster than expected this summer but I am hoping that in general we can maintain our culture.
But thank you for bringing it up, so that I can pay more attention on this.
PS: The about €100 difference between booking a package or self-organized transport/accomodation is for providing this hassle-free arrivals service, which is often more work for us than expected.
However we make it super easy for members to organize this themselves with the guide from our website which has all the information, prices and contacts. Another example, where I don’t think it will be easy to find other places around the world that actively try to save members money by giving them all this information for free instead of optimizing for profits.
Benoit
Hi Matthias,
Thanks for passing by and leaving a comment here .
About the community, as I mentioned, you guys really did a great job creating an environment where people actually offer all these events on their own initiative and I really think it’s an incredible achievement! (I haven’t been to many DN places like this but I guess it’s quite unique). But yeah as I shared here, I think we did not have the same mindset as some people we met in Bansko. To be honest, I don’t think it has anything to do with what you and Uwe created with the coworking… it’s more a reality of what a part of the DN community really is (and I have to live with that). As I said, we haven’t been to many DN places around the world so I don’t have many reference points, but that’s how I felt.
And yeah you definitely grew fast this summer! We were not expecting to meet that many DN in Bansko Bulgaria . So I think with that amount of people it takes a bit longer to “break the ice” and really connect with people (we did made some good friends though). That’s also why I think 1 months was too short and that eventually, if we had stayed longer, we would have found our tribe.
About the 100€ thing, I have nothing against paying for a hassle-free arrival service! But to be honest our booking experience was a little bit confusing (and I know at least one other person that felt the same). I mean when we first saw the prices on the website we were like “woow that’s really cheap! let’s buy that”… But then, as we arrived by bus (so we did not needed the transfer) and we realized that 110€ was actually for the transfer (that’s the amount that was removed from our bill). Then we arrived in Bansko and we also realized that the apartment was only 200€/months (I mean if you’ve never been to Bansko, you can’t believe you can rent an apartment for 200€)… I just think the booking experience would be more clear and even better if this was more transparent directly on your homepage. This way, people would know from the start what they are paying for and I’m pretty sure many people would still prefer to take the hassle-free service.
Anyways, I hope you don’t get me wrong… as I said in the conclusion, we really had an overall very positive experience. And I think you and Uwe really created an awesome coworking space with a lot going on in beautiful Bansko! It’s just that I also realized in Bansko that I couldn’t get along with every DN of the community… Which is also fine and I’m pretty sure we will come back to coworking Bansko at some point (I would love to try the winter in Bansko). See you next time!
Redwhiteadventures
WOW I read the whole article and I’m really sold on going to Bansko this fall. I’m in Canada right now and about a 45 minute drive to an airport but I am really looking forward to getting out into nature and just living somewhere really chill for a few months! Have you tried the skiing in Bansko!?
Benoit
Hey glad you like the article. Yeah you should definitely give Bansko a try! We haven’t tried the skiing in Bansko yet but we heard only good things about it. Probably the best ski resort in the Balkans.
Maarten Belmans
Hi there,
Thanks for the writeup. How did you book the four leaf clover? When I look at booking.com, it says €1,200 instead of €210. I expect higher prices in winter but that’s a lot higher 🙂
Benoit
You should call them directly and tell them you will be working at the coworking Bansko… you should be able to find their number on the coworking Bansko website
Maarten Belmans
Thanks! We booked our stay for Feb – March. I’m excited. We’re also not ‘money chasers’ so hopefully the community has changed. Thanks for your writeup 🙂
Fabienne
Hi, I’m sure you’ll like it! Winter is definitively a season we’re willing to see as well there. And no worries, with the many nomads, it’s always easy to find “your people” 😉
We’d be really thankful if you could come write about your impressions here after your stay, I’m sure this might help future nomads as well.
Enjoy!
Jonas Weckerle
Love this post I think you are the reason why so many French people are coming to Bansko at the moment 🙂
I don’t think it’s necessarily a bad thing that everyone has different values otherwise it would be quite boring.
Are you sure the guy with shooting was serious? I can’t imagine anybody here has this kind of business model.
Fabienne
Hi Jonas,
thanks for your comment! haha not sure our blog post is related to the french presence though. 🙂
I agree that diversity is also what creates interesting conversations, I guess maybe we’re also quite used to smaller communities and getting to know people better and thus Bansko was sometimes a bit overwhelming. From what I’ve seen there seems to be a slightly smaller community this year, this looks nice!
Regarding the shooting this was not their business model (thank god!) but they simply saw an opportunity after reading this news and reacted quickly to start selling a product which was “trending” after the event. They are not bad people at all, it’s just the way they presented “this particular opportunity” that really disturbed me a lot. There are many ways to make money and maybe we were a bit too naive, but I really hated the idea of presenting a product idea with something in the line of “people in fear and especially when it comes to their children are less price sensitive and thus it’s great for making more profit”. But again, I might just be a bit too naive when it comes to business haha. 😉
Enjoy your time in Bansko!
Jack Epner
Being from the U.S., I can attest to horrific exploitations of circumstance for profit being a bit too common. I remember after 9/11, there were countless TV ads about buying commemorative coins (basically paying $25 for a coin worth $0.25), because it was the “patriotic” thing to do. Basically a bunch of people trying to profit off an act of terrorism, and make it sound like you’re a terrorist if you don’t buy one. Disgusting!
Philip
I’m planning to spend a month over there as a digital nomad. I was in Bulgaria last summer and to my surprise I met a lot of digital nomads that do different stuff than the usual copywriting, dropshipping, amazon stuff,… Some of them had quite interesting jobs and might even be in a higher income class. I don’t know if you are referring to them if you state that not everybody is nice. The fact that nowedays everybody is working from home, changes the digital nomad scene. You don’t have to be an internet entrepreneur anymore to travel around. Almost anybody in an intellectual job has no strings to an office. I would not feel at home if everybody around me is the typical blogger, influencer with little professional ambition.
Benoit
Hi Philip,
I totally agree when you say that you don’t need to be an internet entrepreneur to travel around anymore. The DN scene has certainly changed in the last 2-3 years and I’m sure Bansko is no exception to this. When we stayed there we definitely did not get along with everybody as mentioned in the post, but we still met very nice people and I’m sure you will find your crowd there as well.
If you end up traveling there, I would love to read your feedback and know what you thought about it.