Backpacking Peru: our travel guide

Are you soon traveling to Peru and looking for information to prepare your backpacking trip? Here we offer a practical page that gathers all the important information to know before you go. At the end, you will find links to all the blog articles we have written about the country.

During our trip around the world, we spent over a month in Peru, doing quite a few hikes and also exploring the more classic cities and tourist sites. We think of Trujillo and Chiclayo in the north, the Cordillera Blanca, Cusco, Lima, etc. It's the country that sparked our love for independent hiking, especially with a magnificent 9-day trek that passes through two architectural treasures of Peru: Choquequirao and Machu Picchu! Undoubtedly, it was one of the highlights of our 19-month backpacking trip.

Map of our stay in Peru

As mentioned earlier, our articles about Peru are all available in chronological order at the end of this page. However, if you prefer to plan your trip using a map, you will find below all our articles by region. Simply click the button to view the map of Peru.

Show the map

The best time to go to Peru

Peru is a country in South America that is not particularly large compared to its neighbors, but there are significant climate differences between regions. The reason? Altitude! In Peru, altitudes can be high as the Andes Mountains cross the country from north to south.

• The coastal region is almost desert-like, with temperatures fairly constant throughout the year and not much rainfall. Therefore, there is no best time to travel there.

• In the Andean region, you quickly reach high altitudes like in Cusco or Huaraz, for example. In short, if we make broad generalizations, Peru is mountainous and has two seasons: a dry season and a wet one. The best time to visit this region of Peru is therefore in winter (for the Southern Hemisphere ;)), from May to November.

In terms of temperatures, be careful in the Andes! In winter (between June and August), it's generally very good during the day - easily over 20 °C - but at night, temperatures can drop below 0 °C! During our treks in Huaraz, for example, we would walk comfortably in a T-shirt during the day, but in the morning, we would wake up in our tent with frost all around us (including us!).

• Besides that, there's the Amazon with its tropical climate. There, the climate is relatively warm throughout the year with permanent humidity. So, you can go there at any time of the year.

Itinerary: what to do in Peru?

Before planning your travel itinerary in Peru, here are some tips to consider:

• Peru is a fairly large country and bus travel times can be long. So, optimize your trips and avoid unnecessary back and forth.
• Be careful with the climate depending on the region you're in... If you feel hot in Lima, it doesn't mean it will be pleasant in Huaraz ;)!
• Take into account the altitude, whether you plan to do long hikes or not. Don't underestimate altitude sickness (soroche in Spanish) and plan for at least 2-3 days of acclimatization before tackling the peaks. We wrote a whole section on this famous altitude sickness following the unfortunate experience of a Brazilian who hiked with us on the Santa Cruz trek. He bitterly regretted launching himself on this hike directly from Lima...

In this section, we won't provide a typical itinerary for 15 days or 1 month in Peru because it depends a lot on what you like to do and also your physical condition. We present the must-sees of Peru from north to south and stay ideas to give you an overview of what there is to see in the region.

Trujillo: the ancient Inca civilizations

We stopped for 4 days in Chiclayo and Trujillo, cities located in the far north of Peru, as we were coming from Ecuador. This desert region is known to be the cradle of pre-Inca civilizations and is a great stop to discover that there is more to Peru than just the Incas ;)!

Read our article about Chiclayo and Trujillo

Huaraz: the gem of the Andes

Huaraz is undoubtedly the best base for hiking enthusiasts! After 8 days, we left totally amazed by the region and would love to come back to explore more of the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra! Stopping in Huaraz is also an opportunity to learn more about the Chavín civilization, predating the Incas. We stayed a total of 8 days in Huaraz, including 4 to do the Santa Cruz trek. Honestly, you can stay in the region for 15 days without any problem if you love the outdoors!

For less than 4 days in Huaraz, we recommend:

• laguna Wilcacocha;
• laguna Radian;
• laguna 69;
• and Pastoruri Glacier if you are acclimatized enough.

For more than 4 days in Huaraz, we recommend the above list for day hikes plus:

• Quilcayhuanca trek (3-4 days);
• Santa Cruz trek (4 days);
• Huayhuash trek for the more adventurous (between 4 and 10 days).

Read our article about Huaraz

Lima: the beautiful capital of Peru

Lima was a cultural and gastronomic stop for us; we really liked the city's vibe but especially it's where we had our best Peruvian meals! An essential stop for 2-3 days with a visit to the Plaza de Armas surrounded by colonial buildings and its cathedral; a walk on the Malecón, a path that runs along the cliff of the Miraflores neighborhood overlooking the Peruvian coast... Don't miss the Huaca Pucllana pyramids located right in Lima!

In terms of gastronomy, don't forget to try the famous ceviche, the national dish of Peru! One thing we like to do when we arrive in a big city is a free walking tour! The principle is simple: you take a guided tour of the city and at the end, you leave a tip for the guide. It's a good way to tour Lima's attractions without spending a fortune.

If you want to spend more time in Lima, here are some activity ideas in and around the capital:

• Attend the circuito mágico del agua at Parque de la Reserva;
• Stroll in the Barranco district and admire the street art;
• Take a Peruvian cooking class;
• Visit the Museum of the Nation at the Ministry of Culture (free!).

Cusco and Machu Picchu, between nature and history

Cusco is the classic destination in Peru! We admit, we stayed there for 4 days but we weren't the biggest fans of the somewhat Disney-esque side of some areas. But it must be admitted that the region is sublime and definitely worth a visit! Moreover, this former Inca capital is perfect for acclimatizing gently before tackling various hikes in the Andes.

It's also in Cusco that most treks are organized for Machu Picchu. In this region, we did one of our most beautiful treks of the world tour: 9 days independently to reach Choquequirao and Machu Picchu.

Read our article on the Machu Picchu trek

The Rainbow Mountain, the mountain of 7 colors

You have certainly already seen photos of Vinicunca, commonly called the Rainbow Mountain.

Located 3 hours 30 minutes by road from Cusco, it is unique... and not at the same time. If you then go to Argentina, especially in the north of Salta, you will see other colorful mountains that are a bit more accessible.

Indeed, Vinicunca is not easily tamed. It's a difficult 3-4 hour hike where you will be at high altitude. So, acclimatization in Cusco before the trek is mandatory!

This trek can be done independently or with organized tours from Cusco and you can even combine it with Machu Picchu.

An alternative is to go to Palcoyo, another rainbow mountain located 40 km from Vinicunca; it's more accessible and less popular than Rainbow Mountain.

Paracas and Arequipa: the south of Peru

This is an area we didn't explore at all but these stops can replace Huaraz if you're not into hiking.

Paracas and the Ballestas Islands

Paracas National Reserve is located on a peninsula less than a 4-hour drive from Lima. There, it's the meeting of the ocean and the desert where hundreds of bird species, mammals, and fish have found refuge. The beaches are also worth a look and the desert areas will suit thrill-seekers (buggy, sandboarding...).

Paracas is also the starting point to discover the Ballestas Islands and its significant colony of sea lions, as well as the Huacachina Oasis.

Find tours for Paracas here. Apart from the car, there are no transports that go there...

Arequipa

Arequipa is the second largest city in Peru and is a great stop to discover another facet of the country. Known for its white buildings made of ignimbrite (or sillar), a rock formed from volcanic debris, it is nicknamed the White City. Don't miss its historic center and the Santa Catalina convent, which is beautiful!

Arequipa is also the starting point for the Colca Canyon, the second-deepest canyon in the world! There are multiple trekking options. We recommend this site with all the necessary information and this one for organized tours from Arequipa.

Lake Titicaca

If you're in Peru and a visit to Bolivia isn't on the agenda, it might be worth your while to push on to the famous Lake Titicaca, located on the border between the 2 countries! Each side has its own attractions, and we can't recommend going there enough, whether to feast on the trout, admire the sunsets or discover the islands! On the Peruvian side, the best-known are the floating Uros islands, but there are many more to explore. To help you get organized, we've written a whole article about our visit to Lake Titicaca.

Learning Spanish in Peru

During our journey in Latin America, we decided to take Spanish lessons when we arrived on the continent! So, as our first South American stop was planned in Ecuador, we took them in Quito. But there are quite a few travelers who opt for courses in Peru.

If you want our opinion, even though language courses are offered in all Peruvian cities, the best city to take courses is probably Cusco! The courses there are cheaper compared to the capital, and you are close to many points of interest!

Peruvian Spanish is relatively easy to understand; they speak much slower than Chileans, for example. Note that alongside Spanish, a few indigenous languages are still spoken in certain regions such as Quechua, Aymara, Kawki, or even Aguaruna.

How to get to Peru

Peru has 3 international airports:

• Jorge Chávez Airport in Lima, in the center of the country;
• Alejandro-Velasco-Astete Airport in Cuzco further south;
• Rodriguez Ballon Airport in Arequipa, in the extreme south of Peru.

As Lima is a hub, we advise you to land and depart from the capital; tickets will be cheaper compared to the other two cities. For a direct round trip from Paris to Lima, tickets cost around 1000 euros during the high tourist season, between May and November (with a peak in July and August), and it can go up to 1700 euros! Off-season, one-way tickets are a bit cheaper, not exceeding 1200 euros. To lower the bill, many flights include layovers, but these are often very long.

If you are on a round-the-world trip and wish to cross the border between Ecuador and Peru, know that it can be done very well as explained in the Trujillo and Chiclayo article.

To find the best flight prices to Peru, we invite you to compare tickets on Skyscanner and use price alerts to be notified when prices drop.

How much does a trip to Peru cost?

Whether it's backpacking or a more organized trip, Peru is a country that caters to all types of travel! However, the way you travel will obviously impact your budget.

In Peru, the official currency is the Peruvian sol (SOL or PEN), and all payments are made in this currency. The current exchange rate is 1 euro = 3.95 soles. The currency is quite stable, but be sure to check the current rate before your departure!

It's very easy to withdraw money from the numerous ATMs as they accept the majority of international cards. To limit bank fees, we advise you to ensure that your bank does not charge fees, or alternatively, to subscribe to an online bank like N26.

Traveling in Peru is not very expensive, although, of course, it always depends on your way of traveling and your expectations in terms of comfort. To give you an idea, I would say that an average backpacking budget should be around 30 euros per day. For our part, we did a lot of hiking and trekking, which saved us several nights of hotel stays. As a result, our daily budget in Peru dropped to less than 21 euros per day. If you want more information, we recommend reading the article in which we detail all our expenses in Peru.

Do I need a visa to go to Peru?

If you are French, Swiss, Belgian, or Canadian and plan to visit Peru for purely tourist purposes for less than 3 months, then the good news is that you do not need a visa! For most European citizens, Peru simply issues a stay permit upon arrival in the country, whether by air or land.

To enter Peru, you simply need a valid passport with an expiration date of more than 6 months after the date of entry into Peruvian territory. Note that you may be asked for proof of exit from the territory. In such cases, your return ticket or a cancellable hotel reservation in a neighboring country may suffice.

In total, for tourist purposes, you are not allowed to stay more than 90 calendar days in a period of 180 days. To stay in Peru for more than 90 days, you must therefore leave the country and return. Otherwise, you will be required to pay a fine of 5.1 soles per day exceeded at the time of leaving the country.

Peru and COVID

There are no longer any COVID-19-related measures for traveling to Peru. Find the latest updates on the US embassy in Peru website.

Which vaccines should I get for Peru?

No vaccines are mandatory for visiting Peru. However, some are recommended:

• Hepatitis A and B;
• Yellow fever;
• Rabies;
• Typhoid.

Malaria is present in South America, but due to the high altitudes, Peru is somewhat spared. The risk areas extend roughly to the northeast of the country, between the Ecuadorian and Brazilian borders, the Andes, and Huaraz.

Additionally, the country faces an annual dengue epidemic between December and April in the north and west. Protection against mosquitoes is essential to prevent these diseases transmitted by their bites. For precise information on vaccines and malaria, we recommend the website of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Buses and trains in Peru

The bus

The different buses

We used to think buses were great in Ecuador, but that was before we got to Peru! Here, everyone takes the bus, and it's THE way to travel from one city to another. When booking your tickets, you'll have different categories for optimal comfort depending on your journey:

• classic buses (economy) and collectivos: perfect for journeys of less than 4 hours, they offer basic service for an interesting price.
• semi-cama buses (semi-sleeper): ideal for overnight trips since the seats can recline to 140° without bothering your neighbors.
• Cama buses (sleeper): more expensive than semi-cama but just as practical for long distances, the camas are very comfortable with seats reclining to 160 or even 180°, and services are often included in the price (meals, individual screen...). In short, it's the ultimate for a good night's sleep on a bus!

Different Bus Companies

As buses are legion, you'll have a choice among the numerous companies that crisscross Peru. Here are the ones we recommend for their comfort and good value.

• Ittsa Bus
• Movilbus
• Oltursa
• Julio César
• Linea: a good company that only serves the north of Peru.
• Civa: Superciva offers good value for money and they offer both cama and semi-cama seats within the same vehicle.

A note on Cruz del Sur company: you'll notice that we didn't travel once with Cruz del Sur. Yet, it's the company recommended in all tourist guides and on the Internet... So, two reasons for that:

• Cruz del Sur is a company 100% aimed at tourists. Sure, you might make some nice encounters, but forget about meeting Peruvians.
• The second reason is the price! On average, Cruz del Sur buses cost between 20 and 40% more. Personally, I agree to pay more if it offers real security benefits. Honestly, the aforementioned companies offer similar comfort and didn't seem any more dangerous to us.

We recommend booking your tickets in advance, especially if you're taking a night bus, on this site or that one.

The train

The Peruvian railway network is underdeveloped, and understandably so, taking the train in Peru is expensive! The most well-known lines (let's admit it, geared towards tourists) are probably those connecting Cusco and Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes, the town of Machu Picchu. From Cusco, this can be a way to explore the Sacred Valley on a panoramic train, but it's not cheap. We've written a whole section on how to get to Machu Picchu by train.

The other lines connect Lima to Huancayo and Cusco to Lake Titicaca, located on the border between Peru and Bolivia.

Festivals and celebrations in Peru

Festivities in Peru mainly follow Catholic holidays, but some regions have preserved rites inherited from ancient civilizations.

• January: at the end of the month, attend the Marinera festival, the typical Peruvian dance. Dance and horse contests are organized during the week, all in a festive atmosphere. Peruvians come from all corners of the country to gather in Trujillo and practice this complex seduction dance.
• February: in Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, Candlemas (Candelaria) is an opportunity to discover one of the largest folk gatherings in Peru with over 200 troupes. For a week, songs and dances succeed each other in a lively and colorful atmosphere where Catholic and Andean traditions intertwine.

• March-April: the country celebrates Semana Santa, Holy Week. Throughout Peru, processions with music and dances are organized, and in the region of Ayacucho, between Lima and Aguas Calientes, the festivities are the most renowned.
• May: Qoyllur Rit'i, the Snow Festival, is the largest indigenous pilgrimage in South America. Several thousand pilgrims, including Quechuas, Aymaras, Peruvians, and anyone wishing to participate, ascend the glacier of Mount Ausangate. During this long syncretic march, pre-Columbian rites blend with religious celebrations for a unique event, listed as UNESCO heritage.

• June: June 24th is Saint John's Day, the winter solstice but also South America's second largest festival, Inti Raymi, the Sun Festival. In Inca times, the sun was invoked on this date so it wouldn't disappear into the universe. Today, invocations are still part of the event with the addition of processions and rituals from the Coricancha temple in Cusco, the former Inca capital. In total, Inti Raymi lasts 1 week and attracts as many tourists as locals. If you plan to visit Cusco during this period, book your accommodations well in advance as everything fills up throughout this major South American festival.
• July: July 28th is the occasion to commemorate Peru's independence obtained in 1821. The Peruvian national holiday is celebrated with parades and fireworks organized in all cities. In Lima, more official ceremonies also take place.
• September: if you're in Lima at this time, don't miss the Mistura festival, the largest culinary festival in South America! On the menu for epicureans: local producers, tastings, lectures, cooking classes. It's THE event not to be missed to taste everything Peru has to offer in culinary specialties.
• September-October: the arrival of spring is an event not to be missed in northern Peru! El festival Internacional de la Primavera takes place in Trujillo where float parades, dances, and celebrations follow one another.

Must-try Peruvian dishes

Ah, Peru and its gastronomy, a culinary story that traces the country's miscegenation through the centuries! Who said South America doesn't have great food? There's no doubt that this trip will be synonymous with culinary discoveries for your taste buds. Let's review the typical drinks, dishes, and desserts you'll encounter during your Peruvian journey.

Drinks

• Pisco sour: impossible to talk about drinks in Peru without mentioning the Pisco Sour, the typical Peruvian cocktail. Made with pisco, the local grape-based alcohol, lime juice, sugar syrup, and egg white. You'll also find this drink in the neighboring country, Chile
• Mate de coca: take coca leaves, infuse them in boiling water, and you get one of the best natural remedies for altitude sickness.
• Inca Kola: it's the number 1 sweet soda in Peru, surpassing even Coca-Cola! The yellow color of this soda can be misleading, as is its bubblegum taste, but it's worth a try out of curiosity.
• Chicha de jora and chicha de morada: the first drink is often found in the Andean region; it's a kind of low-alcohol beer made from corn. Chicha de morada, on the other hand, is a delicious non-alcoholic refreshing drink with a pretty pink-violet color. It's made with boiled purple corn water with pineapple and cinnamon.

Peruvian dishes

• Ceviche: you'll inevitably have the opportunity to taste ceviche, THE Peruvian national dish. It consists of raw fish marinated in citrus juice (often lime) with garlic, onions, coriander, and sometimes chili, and is served with sweet potatoes or corn. Restaurants specializing in ceviches are called cevicherias. If you're on the Peruvian coast, don't miss out on trying this iconic dish, they're very famous there!
• Cuy: this specialty also found in Ecuadorian cuisine is reserved for the most adventurous. We admit to passing on the grilled guinea pig!

• Aji de gallina: chicken is legion in Peruvian restaurants. In this dish, the chicken is served with a creamy sauce spiced with yellow peppers and is accompanied by rice and a hard-boiled egg.
• Lomo saltado: this Peruvian culinary specialty has its origins in the 1800s when Chinese immigrants settled in Peru and created this dish. Today, this beef stir-fry with onions and tomatoes is served with rice and fries and can be found on all restaurant menus.

Peruvian Desserts

• Picarones: a true street dessert, these fritters made from sweet potatoes and squash have a unique flavor and can be enjoyed at any time of the day for a moment of indulgence.
• Suspiro limeño (or a la limeña): specialty of Lima, this traditional dessert combines a cream made from dulce de leche (the famous caramelized milk jam) and a delicate meringue flavored with port.
• Alfajores: you'll find these popular small cookies throughout South America. They consist of two biscuits assembled with a filling in the middle made mostly of dulce de leche.

Wi-Fi and Internet

Internet is almost everywhere in Peru. The vast majority of hostels, guesthouses, and hotels offer free Wi-Fi to their guests, as do most cafes and restaurants. We had no trouble connecting, so we skipped getting a local SIM card.

Peru is in the UTC -5 time zone, meaning there is a 7-hour difference from France.

A useful resource for traveling to Peru

Lonely Planet Peru: a must-have to learn everything about the country!