During our visit to Huaraz, we embarked on the Santa Cruz trek for 4 days, but rest assured, that's not the sole reason to visit the Cordillera Blanca! If multi-day hikes aren't your cup of tea, Huaraz, a Peruvian city, still has a lot to offer in terms of day treks. Outdoor enthusiasts, get ready to be thrilled! This article covers the best hikes in the Cordillera Blanca and provides practical information about Huaraz!
- What to do in Huaraz, the little Switzerland of the Andes?
- Map of treks and hikes around Huaraz
- Laguna Wilcacocha
- Magical Laguna 69
- Laguna 513
- Pastoruri Glacier
- Laguna Churup and laguna Churupita
- Laguna Paròn
- Laguna Radian, laguna Mullaca and laguna Ahuac: the Loop of the 4 Lagoons
- Best Multi-Day Treks Around Huaraz
- How to get to Huaraz
- Accommodation in Huaraz
- Where to shop in Huaraz?
- Buying or renting hiking gear in Huaraz
We took this trip in 2014, but the article was completely revised and updated in February 2024. If you see any price changes or have additional information that might be relevant, please feel free to leave us a comment!
What to do in Huaraz, the little Switzerland of the Andes?
Huaraz is a charming town in central Peru, perched at an altitude of 3100 meters in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. It's sometimes nicknamed the Chamonix of the Andes or the little Switzerland of the Andes. And being the little Swiss, we felt compelled to take a closer look!
Visiting the city
Well, the first disappointment was the absence of chalets or cheese shops, but we could have expected that. However, we were not disappointed by the panorama of the city! Huaraz is surrounded by snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. It's incredible on a clear day!
The city itself doesn't have a particular charm. The houses are often simple concrete blocks, and for once, the Plaza de Armas didn't really charm us. But we were fortunate to be in Huaraz for las Fiestas Patrias, the Peruvian national holiday! Between the various parades and street festivities, we didn't get bored!
Visiting the Archaeological Museum of Ancash
Located on the Plaza de Armas, the Regional Museum of Ancash presents archaeological pieces belonging to the civilizations that inhabited the region. Outside, you'll find the largest collection of monoliths in America, remnants of the Recuay culture. Everything is in Spanish, but it's worth it for basic explanations about the civilizations. We recommend it if you don't plan to visit Chavín de Huántar. The entrance is 7 soles, and the archaeological museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Exploring the Chavín de Huántar archaeological site
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Chavín de Huántar site is one of the most important remains of the Chavín civilization, predating the Incas and the Moche found further north. This people inhabited this region of the Andes between 1500 and 300 BCE. The site, consisting of squares, a vast network of galleries, and terraces, was once the ceremonial and pilgrimage center for the Andean population before becoming the cultural and religious epicenter of Peru! And this is reflected in the stone works and ornaments.
The Chavín National Museum is worth a visit after the archaeological site. There, you'll see carved stelae and obelisks, as well as stone-clad heads that adorned the temples.
Plan a day to tour the complex and the museum. To get there, the easiest way is to take a day tour that includes a guide and transportation to the archaeological site with a stop on the way at Laguna Querococha. Otherwise, there are buses that shuttle between Huaraz and Chavín de Huántar, but it will take longer since it's not nearby. If you go on your own, you can also combine it with the Olleros trek.
Honcopampa archaeological zone
Another archaeological site closer to Huaraz, the houses of Honcopampa are the remains of another pre-Inca civilization, the Wari. The entrance is free and unprotected, leading unfortunately to deliberate damage. The area is a 1-hour drive north of Huaraz. Therefore, we don't necessarily recommend going there unless you're a history enthusiast!
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Hiking to acclimate gently
As we mentioned in our article on the Santa Cruz trek, if there's one thing not to joke about, it's altitude! Especially the phenomenon of altitude sickness. A Brazilian almost didn't make it during our 4-day trek!
So, before embarking on a multi-day trek or a day hike from Huaraz, it's wise to acclimate a bit. For this, we provide all the little acclimatization hikes that will help you for the upcoming long hikes of your Peruvian journey. We highly recommend the Wilcacocha and 69 lagoons if you only have 3 days in Huaraz (including 1 rest day in Huaraz to start acclimatization).
In terms of altitude progression, here are the day hikes ranked with their highest point, from the lowest to the highest:
- Laguna Wilcacocha (3721 m above sea level);
- Laguna Paròn (4300 m);
- Laguna 513 (4451 m);
- Laguna Churup (4500 m);
- Laguna Ahuac (4542 m);
- Laguna Radian (4570 m);
- Laguna 69 (4618 m);
- Laguna Mullaca (4973 m);
- Pastoruri Glacier (5000 m).
In terms of equipment, we refer you to the Santa Cruz trek gear.
Map of treks and hikes around Huaraz
To orient yourself, here's a map of the treks and hikes relative to the Cordillera Blanca and Huaraz.
Laguna Wilcacocha
Once you're no longer out of breath while lacing up your hiking boots in Huaraz, we recommend taking a look at Laguna Wilcacocha!
In itself, Wilcacocha Lagoon is nothing special, at least compared to Laguna 69. But the interest of this easy little hike is that you climb in the Cordillera Negra. And I bet you'll love it: from the top, you have a breathtaking view of almost the entire Cordillera Blanca!
Summary and map of Laguna Wilcacocha
- 6.3 km
- 586 m positive elevation gain
- 2.5-3.5 hours round trip
You can download the map here.
The start of the trail to Laguna Wilcacocha is about a 15-minute collectivo ride from downtown Huaraz. To find them, just go in front of the stadium or around the central market and take a collectivo (No. 10 or E) for 1 sol per person. Make sure to say that you want to get off at Puente Santa Cruz in San Nicolas. Cross the small bridge and start climbing! For the return, wait for a collectivo on the side of the road at the bridge level, hitchhike, or stop a taxi (1.5 soles each).
Magical Laguna 69
Now, Laguna 69 is probably the day hike not to be missed in Huaraz! However, I warn you right away: agencies sell it as a nice little excursion with a short walk to reach a lagoon. Well… It's still 6 hours on the day, and between 4 and 6 hours of hiking depending on your condition. And it's steep! So make sure you're somewhat acclimated to the altitude in Huaraz before ascending to Laguna 69. This hike is an excellent way to further acclimate to the altitude before embarking on the Santa Cruz trek.
The climb is in full sun, and the 830 meters of positive elevation gain to reach this small turquoise mountain lake are quite challenging! And there's no denying the effort is worth it! The reward is to fully enjoy the view at the top for 1 to 2 hours before descending slowly. Oh, and for the more adventurous, a little dip is a must 😉.
Note: if we were to do it again, I think we would take our tent. We saw people camping at the top, and honestly, it almost hurt us to have to come down after only 2 hours by the lagoon.
Map and summary of Laguna 69
- 13.2 km
- 830 m positive elevation gain
- 4.5-6 hours round trip
- Note: In high season (during the dry season, from May to October in Peru), the Laguna 69 trail is very crowded!
Transport from Huaraz to Laguna 69
Laguna 69 is located in Huascarán National Park, a 3-hour drive from Huaraz, and an entrance fee is required. You can buy it at the park entrance or in Huaraz for 60 soles. To get to the lagoon, you can take a tour (the easy way) or manage on your own (not impossible but more complicated to handle).
With a tour
To get to 69 Lagoon, the simplest is really not to bother and take a tour from Huaraz. (Note that the entrance fee to the national park is often not included in the tour price.) Round-trip transportation is included with a stop at the magnificent Llanganuco Lagoon on the way to take some photos! Once at the foot of the mountain, the driver sets a return time for you (you have plenty of time to enjoy the lagoon), and then off you go! No need for a guide for this hike, the tour includes only transportation. But if you want to be guided during the tour, it's also possible to hire a guide.
On your own
Reaching the beginning of the trail to Laguna 69 without a tour is possible by taking collectivos. It's best to ask locals in Huaraz. The idea is to take a collectivo between Huaraz and Yungay (8 soles) and another between Yungay and the start of the trek, just before Vaquería (30 soles). The only problem is returning to Huaraz because you'll find few (or none at all) collectivos from 3 p.m. onwards. So it's a bit tight timing-wise.
Another solution is to spend 2 nights around Vaquería (we explain everything in this article) to be in top shape on the same morning, or sleep at the Refugio Perù. In the morning, you'll only have 4.5 km to walk to the lagoon (and 420 meters of elevation gain).
Here are all the options, but honestly, we advise you not to overthink it because tour prices are really reasonable (for once!). Do it on your own only if you plan to stay in Huascarán Park for the next few days to do the Santa Cruz trek or any other hike.
Laguna 513
Much less popular than its neighbor number 69 but equally strenuous, the Laguna 513 trail is not without interest with 2 lagoons for the price of 1 with the Rajupàquinan Lagoon and a breathtaking view of the Hualcán glacier!
Map and information for Laguna 513
- 13.4 km
- 902 m positive elevation gain
- 4.5-6 hours round trip
- Attention, the trail is fairly well marked but it's better to have the GPS track for the last 2 kilometers.
To get to the beginning of the 513 Lagoon trail, collectivos make the journey between Huaraz and Carhuaz in 45 minutes. Then, take another one between Carhuaz and Hualcán for a 45-minute journey. There, you have 2 options: ask the bus driver to drop you off further, at the start of the hike, or find a taxi to cover the remaining few kilometers to Shonquilpampa. If you opt for the latter option, ask him to wait for you on the return (count 6 hours of hiking with breaks included).
As with Laguna 69, it's also possible to camp in the area to witness the sunrise.
Pastoruri Glacier
Another well-known hike in the Cordillera Blanca is the Pastoruri Glacier. Here, not too much elevation gain, but there's no doubt you'll feel the effort: you'll reach 5000 meters above sea level at the foot of the glacier! Therefore, we recommend the Pastoruri Glacier after good acclimatization in Huaraz. Destined to disappear in the coming years, it is the sad witness of climate change. All activities on the glacier have been banned for several years to slow down its melting.
Information and map of Pastoruri Glacier
- 4 km
- 200 m positive elevation gain
- 2 hours round trip
Download the trek track here.
Located 75 kilometers from Huaraz, Pastoruri Glacier is not as easy to reach as it seems. Unless you take a taxi or rent a car, there is no public transportation to get there. In this case, you will have to take a day tour. You will make several stops before reaching the glacier trail to see sparkling water sources, Laguna Patococha, and the amazing Puya Raimondi (giant plants endemic to the Andes).
Note: Pastoruri Glacier is located in Huascarán National Park, so you must add the park entrance fee (to be purchased in Huaraz or at the entrance where the minibus will make a stop).
Laguna Churup and laguna Churupita
Closer to Huaraz than most other hikes, Laguna Churup is a bit less crowded than Laguna 69. Although it is shorter, its elevation gain is significant, making it a little challenge! At the end of the trail, you'll find Laguna Churup, one of the most beautiful around Huaraz, and an incredible view of Mount Churup. For the more daring, you can push on to its little sister, Laguna Churupita. This adds 2.7 km in total and an additional 175 meters of elevation gain. Because of the effort this hike requires, we recommend doing Laguna 69 or Wilcacocha before Churup and Churupita.
- 6 km/8.7 km
- 657 m/832 m positive elevation gain
- 4 hours/6 hours round trip
- Advice: the right part of the loop is a bit more challenging as it resembles climbing; you have to pull yourself up with the chains fixed in the steep wall. So, take a left at the junction on the way there (and on the way back too if you don't fancy it).
To download the trek track, click here!
To go to Churup Lagoon from Huaraz, it's quite easy. Collectivos leave from the city center, behind the central market, to cover the 19 km to the village of Pitec where the trail begins. To return to Huaraz, collectivos leave Pitec in the afternoon. Otherwise, tours are organized by agencies to make things easier for you.
Laguna Paròn
Laguna Parón is the largest lagoon in the Cordillera Blanca and undoubtedly the most beautiful! Frankly, we didn't do this hike, but it would have been great for us. (I mean, have you seen that shade of blue?)
The trek to Laguna Parón is easier than that of Laguna 69. The trail follows the turquoise water before reaching Artesoncocha Lagoon, dominated by Mount Artesonraju. Remember? It's the Paramount mountain whose other side we observed during the Santa Cruz trek!
- 11.34 km (+ 1,40 km)
- 340 m positive elevation gain (+ 124 m)
- 5 hours round trip (+ 30 min)
Note: a trail starts from Artesoncocha Lagoon to reach Laguna Congelada, literally the frozen lagoon. We warn you because it is very steep and can be dangerous due to rocks to climb.
Another trail (in green on the map) starts from the edge of Parón Lagoon towards a viewpoint overlooking the large blue expanse.
Download both GPS tracks here.
The latest activity offered in Laguna Parón is kayaking! For a few soles, you can navigate these unique waters.
Laguna Parón is located 100 km from Huaraz, even further than the other points mentioned so far. That's why we recommend staying around Caraz (we explain that here). This avoids too much travel and allows you to combine other hikes in the area (Santa Cruz trek, 69 Lagoon...).
However, for a day trip, you have the choice of taking a collectivo, a taxi, or a tour.
The advantage of minibusses is the price, but for this one, we won't recommend minibusses too much. Indeed, they will drop you off at the village of Parón, 11 km walk from the eponymous lagoon! Moreover, you will walk on a dirt road, also used by cars. Not great. Also, your time spent at the top will be limited, which would be a shame. Here, the highlight is clearly the destination! So, make the most of it.
Taxis and tours have the advantage of dropping you off at the edge of Laguna Parón. To take a taxi, you will first need to reach Caraz by collectivo from Huaraz (about a 3-hour journey for around 40 soles). Then, take a taxi (share it with other travelers) to go to the lagoon; it will wait for you to return to Caraz.
Laguna Radian, laguna Mullaca and laguna Ahuac: the Loop of the 4 Lagoons
Alright, how about a bit more of glacial lakes? These last 3 trails are in the same area, northeast of Huaraz, and are very rarely frequented. We recommend them to get off the beaten path, especially if you stay in Huaraz for a week (or more) to explore all the day trails and challenge yourself a bit with elevation gains! You can combine them (for the more experienced) or do this trek in 2 parts: lagunas Radian and Mullaca one day and Laguna Ahuac the next.
Lagunas Radian and Mullaca
- 10.8 km/22.9 km
- 562 m/1401 m positive elevation gain
- 4-5 hours/8 hours round trip
You get it; we're going from simple to double for this 2-in-1 trek! Laguna Radian is perfect for acclimatizing with a gentle hike because you ascend to 3900 meters. The hike poses no major difficulties, and you will arrive at a small but beautiful lagoon where the peaks of the Cordillera Blanca are reflected. Download the track here.
If you decide to continue, the elevation gain intensifies to reach Laguna Mullaca, where you will likely be alone to enjoy the magnificent view of the Vallunareju Glacier. By continuing a bit on the path before turning back, you will catch a glimpse of a third lagoon previously hidden, Laguna Carhuac. A path would lead there according to Alltrails, but that remains to be seen on the spot. Here, you have the option to complete the loop (23 km in about 9 hours), which passes through the Paso del Zorro at 4990 meters and the fourth lagoon, Ahuac, or to turn back. For the complete loop of the 4 lagoons, find the track here.
In the end, the distance is the same whether you continue the tour to see Ahuac Lagoon or turn back. The question is whether your legs will be ready to tackle the final 400 meters of elevation gain to Paso del Zorro and begin the descent over 10 km. 😉
Laguna Ahuac (Willcahuain)
In any case, you can also access Laguna Ahuac from the Willcahuain ruins (not much left today). This archaeological site, also called Huilcahuaín, is not very large. You can quickly go around it in 1 hour, but it's an opportunity to learn more about the pre-Columbian Huari civilization through the adjoining museum. The entrance fee is 7 soles per person.
Back to the hike. The effort is more significant than for Laguna Radian, almost twice the elevation gain for the same distance. But the view of the snow-capped mountains of the Cordillera Blanca and Huaraz is well worth it. Download the hiking track here.
- 12.4 km
- 1200 m elevation gain
- 5 hours round trip
To make one or more hikes from the Willcahuain site, collectivos run from downtown Huaraz to the junction of Cajamarca and 13 De Diciembre streets. For a 30-40 minute journey, it costs about 2 soles each. Another possibility is to take a guide who will take you to Laguna Mullaca from Huaraz.
Best Multi-Day Treks Around Huaraz
Let's continue the stay in Huaraz with multi-day treks. Honestly, you could spend at least 2 weeks just hiking in the area!
Santa Cruz trek
The Santa Cruz trek is one of the most popular treks from Huaraz. We covered 54 km in 4 days and crossed incredible landscapes. We did it in an organized tour, but if we were to do it again, we would take our tent to be more independent! Read our complete article on Santa Cruz with our advice on equipment and logistics.
Huayhuash trek
More challenging than Santa Cruz, the Huayhuash trek is also a must for hikers looking for challenges. It is even regularly mentioned in the list of the most beautiful treks in the world! On the agenda: you will cross the Cordillera Huayhuash located south of the Cordillera Blanca and pass through passes in breathtaking landscapes. All this while walking at over 4000 meters above sea level. As you can understand, don't do Huayhuash right after arriving in Huaraz ;). What's good about this trek is its modularity. You can easily do a 4 or 10-day route, independently or with an agency.
Quilcayhuanca trek
The Quilcayhuanca trek is less known compared to Santa Cruz and Huayhuash. However, it is less demanding than the former: 40 km over 3 or 4 days with a positive elevation gain of 1740 meters in Huascarán National Park. Here too, the panoramas are impressive, and there's a good chance you'll be alone on the trail! Like the other treks, you can either take an agency in Huaraz or do it independently.
It's a trail with magnificent views of the surrounding high mountains, waterfalls and rivers. In short, a good dose of nature on a very non-touristy trek in Huaraz!
Olleros trek
Just as confidential as Quilacayhuanca, the Olleros trek is a long 3-day hike between the village of Olleros (1 hour south of Huaraz) and the archaeological site of Chavín de Huántar. Here, mountainous landscapes blend with Peruvian culture. In total, it's a 39-kilometer trail with a positive elevation gain of 1500 meters. You can do it solo with your equipment or take a guide in Huaraz.
How to get to Huaraz
From Trujillo
We arrived in Huaraz from Trujillo, in northern Peru. It's best to take a night bus from the Julio César or Movilbus companies. Both offer 10-hour journeys for $15-20 per person, all in a very comfortable vehicle, the famous semi-camas and camas.
From Lima
Lima and Huaraz are 400 kilometers apart. Flights do connect the two, but they seem to be sporadic. The ticket prices are around $50 per person. The simplest way is to opt for night buses, and you have a choice among all the companies that cover the route. Book your bus tickets here, here, or even here.
Accommodation in Huaraz
In Huaraz, there's no shortage of hostel options. And, in fact, touts won't hesitate to approach you as soon as you step off the bus! One piece of advice: ignore them! Regarding the type of accommodation, it's essential to know that in Peru, there is a distinction between hostals and hospedajes.
Hostals are inns or small hotels often intended for international tourists. Wi-Fi is generally offered, breakfast is included, and a communal kitchen is often available for travelers. Prices usually range between 20 and 40 soles per person, depending on the room type.
Hospedajes, on the other hand, are smaller inns primarily intended for local tourists. Much cheaper than hostals, hospedajes are also more basic. No breakfast, rarely Wi-Fi, and hot water is a somewhat unpredictable commodity. Prices usually range between 10 and 20 soles per person, depending on the room.
Hospedaje in Huaraz, our test
In Huaraz, we tried both! Before the Santa Cruz trek, we were right in the middle of the national holiday season. Consequently, we didn't fuss and took the first option that had a bed available. We ended up at hospedaje La Perla right next to Rosas Pampa Stadium. For the price, it's definitely a decent alternative. For 35 soles, we had a double room and a private bathroom. It's clean, we had hot water once every two days (not bad for Peru), and even decent Wi-Fi!
Hostal in Huaraz
After our 4-day trek, we still wanted the guarantee of a hot shower. So, we followed the recommendations of two Germans we met on the trek to stay at hostal Alpes Huaraz. The bed starts from 30 soles in a dorm, and honestly, we were comfortable there: the Wi-Fi worked like a charm, the shower was perfectly hot, and the room was comfortable! Plus, the communal kitchen allowed us to cook some meals and also eat with other travelers. We even met a fantastic Catalan couple with whom we shared part of the road later on.
Our accommodation recommendations in Huaraz
In hostals in Huaraz, we also recommend Mirador Backpackers B&B, Sunrise Guest House, Lhotse Hostel B&B, and Caroline lodging, our other nice hostels run by families with budget rooms, whether you're looking for a dorm or a double room. Also, breakfast is included, and you are in the center of Huaraz!
And in more traditional hotels, here are our recommendations:
- Sosa House Eco Hotel Boutique: a cute hotel offering rooms for all tastes and budgets. This ranges from a simple room to a suite or even the entire apartment.
- Royals Resort: a hotel with comfortable rooms and a staff attentive and caring for you. What else?
- Akilpo Home: a charming hotel with a garden and meticulous decoration. Plus, the room prices are more than reasonable for this type of establishment.
- Hotel & Bungalows Villa Valencia: a final hotel if you want to treat yourself after a multi-day trek! The establishment is well-located, and you have the choice between a double room or a bungalow with everything you need to recover from hikes!
Where to shop in Huaraz?
Huaraz is one of the largest cities in the Áncash department, and for most travelers, it's also the starting point for treks. Whether it's for a day hike or longer, it's always good to have some provisions. Since the city still has 130,000 inhabitants, there are some supermarkets (especially Novaplaza) around the main square. But what we remember for shopping is the large covered market (Mercado Central) in Huaraz! There, you will find everything you need for a hike: bread, cereal bars, dried fruits and nuts sold by weight, soups, etc. In short, buy sauces and canned goods in supermarkets, and for everything else, opt for the market!
Buying or renting hiking gear in Huaraz
We arrived in South America from Asia. Needless to say, we weren't exactly equipped for the cold! We had considered buying gear during our 2 months in Quito, but many people advised against it. In Ecuador, foreign products are heavily taxed. As a result, hiking gear costs almost the same as in Europe...
Several people we met along the way said we would find everything we needed in Huaraz. In retrospect, honestly? Well... Let's say if you need to rent gear for a trek, Huaraz indeed offers many options, whether in shops or agencies.
If you go for rental, always check your equipment to avoid unpleasant surprises during the trek.
Buying mountain gear in South America
However, if, like us, you plan to buy equipment, we would recommend doing your shopping in Lima or Cusco. In Huaraz, there are many small shops that sell a mishmash of originals/copies of big brands (North Face, Patagonia…). Of course, everyone will tell you that it's original, and in 80% of cases, you'll be fooled!
Montañas Mágicas Outdoors Equipment and Andes Camping
Nevertheless, there are 2 stores that we found a bit more serious in Huaraz, and above all, they offered South American brands. So, these are originals at the same price as copies of big brands sold on the street.
In our opinion, Montañas Mágicas Outdoors Equipment is the best option, and we found everything we needed. Honestly, the choice wasn't incredible. It's quick: we bought the 2 only sleeping bags they had left, and for waterproof pants and jackets, we didn't fuss about the color, we took what fit us.
The second store, Andes Camping, is right next to Magic Mountain. The choice seemed similar, but we never saw it open during our 3 days in Huaraz. It's highly recommended, but it's tough to say more.
In short, don't count on Huaraz to revamp your hiker's wardrobe! But don't panic if you're missing something. You can find everything if you look a little.
For more on equipment, we recommend our page dedicated to gear for a self-guided trek.
Now you are ready for your trip to Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca, definitely a paradise for hiking enthusiasts! Do you have other trails to recommend to us in Huascarán Park? We'll see you to follow our crazy journey to Machu Picchu!
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Kattia
Beautiful post! thank you for sharing all the details of how to get to the different hikes by public transportation!